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旗袍Cheongsam中国特色中国传统文化—旗袍TheChinesetraditionalcultureCheongsam旗袍Cheongsam中国特色ContentsThedefinitionofcheongsamTheoriginofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructureofcheongsamRepresentativefiguresPicturesappreciating旗袍Cheongsam中国特色Thedefinition•TheQiPaoorChi-Pao,alsoknownasthecheongsamormandaringown(长袍);•Abody-hugging(紧身的)one-pieceChinesedress;旗袍Cheongsam中国特色theManchus(满族人)Nurhachi(努尔哈赤)Embryoacollarless,tube-shapedgownQipaoBannergown(旗服)Theorigin旗袍Cheongsam中国特色WideandlooseCoverbodyA-line旗袍Cheongsam中国特色Theevolution•ThelateQingDynasty.AftertheOpiumWar(鸦片战争),theEuropean-stylesuitsenteredChinafirst.Thewideandloosebodyhadgraduallybecomeshortandnarrow.In1919,theOrdinance(法令)aboutgarments(服装)wasannouncedbytheNationalGovernmentandcheongsamwasestablishedtobethenationalgarments.•In1920sIntheearlyRepublicofChina,thecheongsambegantobepopularagain.Thebodybecameshortened.Thewaistwasnarrowed.Latertherewasanewchangethatstyleofcollarwashighlightedtobefashionabletoshowfeminineappearance.旗袍Cheongsam中国特色•Fromthe1950sto1960sIntheEastAsia,thefoundingofthePeople’sRepublicofChinamarkstheendoftheoldlife.Thecheongsam,whichhasbeencherishedbypeopleforalongtimewasnotpracticalandwassetaside.Butin1950sand1960s,cheongsamsbegantoshowupagaininthepeople'slives.•Fromthe1930sto1940s1930sand1940ssawthecheongsaminitspeakfashion.AffectedbythestylesoftheEurope,astepforwardwasmadeinexposingthefemalefigure.Thecheongsamin1930swasshortenedwiththelengthtotheknees,andthecuffs(袖口)werealsonarrowed.GoldenEra•Inmoderntimes.Popularagainnow.•From1966to1976CulturalRevolution,disaster旗袍Cheongsam中国特色1920s1930s1940s旗袍Cheongsam中国特色Thedistinction•Qing:broad,flat,longtofeet,silk.•Rep:shapedwaist.•Qing:wearingslacks,seethebottomoftrousersfromtheopening.•Rep:wearingsilkstockings,showthelegs.•Qing:usebrocade(织锦)orjacquard(提花织物).•Rep:printedfabric(印花织物),simplicity.Distinction旗袍Cheongsam中国特色QingdynastyRepublicofChina旗袍Cheongsam中国特色•Frog盘扣Thestructure立领襟衩•Mandarincollar立领•Lapel/frontofagarment襟•Openings衩•embroidery刺绣旗袍Cheongsam中国特色Thestyle•Sleeves:widesleeves,narrowandlongsleeves,middlesleeves,shortsleevesorsleeveless.•Jin(襟):roundJin,straightJin,slantingJin(斜襟),doubleJin(双襟),PipaJin(琵琶襟),andsoon.•Collar(领):highcollar,lowcollar,orcollarless.•Openings(开衩):highopenings,lowopenings,noopening旗袍Cheongsam中国特色longsleevesshortsleevessleeveless旗袍Cheongsam中国特色RuyiJin(如意襟)PipaJin(琵琶襟)SlantingJin(斜襟)doubleJin(双襟)旗袍Cheongsam中国特色HighcollarCollarlessLowcollar旗袍Cheongsam中国特色Representativefigures•张爱玲EileenChang(1920-1995)Awell-knownwriter,beaddictedtocheongsam.•Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.生命是一袭华美的袍子,上面爬满了虱子。衣服是一种言语,随身带着一种袖珍戏剧……贴身的环境——那就是衣服,我们各人住在各人的衣服里旗袍Cheongsam中国特色•宋美龄•SoongMay-ling(1897-2003)•FirstladyinRepublicofChina.旗袍第一夫人•Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.旗袍Cheongsam中国特色邓丽君WherethereareChinesethereishervoice,shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam,cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend.有华人的地方就有邓丽君的歌声,她成全了旗袍的美丽,旗袍成就了她的传奇。旗袍Cheongsam中国特色Inthefilm《IntheMoodforLove》(似水年华),MaggieCheung(张曼玉)changemorethan23setsofqipao,afterthemovierelease.Itsetoffarushof“cheongsamhot.Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen旗袍Cheongsam中国特色旗袍Cheongsam中国特色Picturesappreciating旗袍Cheongsam中国特色旗袍Cheongsam中国特色玉脂白Expo(展览会)2010ShanghaiChina立领采用中式旗袍的演变,既有中国文化含义的诠释又融入了国际时尚化的设计手法。旗袍Cheongsam中国特色CheongsamforMissManners青花瓷青花瓷系列设计灵感取自青花瓷器,采用了中国传统针绣,再现了青花瓷的晕染效果。宝蓝旗袍Cheongsam中国特色
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