中国服饰变革(中英双语)

中国近代服饰变革小组成员：徐雨惠子，朱倩，李娜，周刊，李睿乾Greatchangesinfashionhabetakenplaceinthe60yearssince1949andthefoundingofNewChina.ThesechangesprovideuswithavividillustrationofanassortmentofhistoricalmovementsthathaveinfluencedseveralgenerationsofChinese.Eachchangeincolorordetail,whichspedupsince1976,definedtherespectiveera’srapideconomicdevelopmentandhelpedtransformpeople’sminds.We’dliketoexplorethesechangesineachdecadewithyou.回眸新中国60年服饰变迁，无论颜色还是款式，抑或服饰细节，都发生了翻天覆地的变化，无一不体现着几代人伴随着共和国走过的路。尤其是改革开放以来，服装发生这日新月异的变化，风格由单一渐趋多元，色彩由单调趋于斑斓，而隐于背后的是社会经济的巨大发展、人们思想观念的多元变化。下面我们将划分5个年代，为大家展开这幅生动的服饰画卷。（1）50年代：中山装列宁服AsNewChina’sideologychanged,Western-stylesuitsandcheongsamsamongtheupperclassesgraduallyfadedfromthemainstream.BycontrastpeoplepridedthemselvesonwearingChinesetunicsuitsandLeninsuits.Otherfavoredclothingincludedmilitaryuniforms,thebibandbraceoveralland“platye”(button-updress).Gray,blueandgreenwerethecolorsofchoice.新中国诞生伊始，意识形态发生了翻天覆地的变化，从前被视为身份象征的西装革履和刺绣旗袍被深深埋藏了，而能穿上中山装和列宁服的才是人们心目中羡慕的对象。50年代服装流行关键词还有军便装、工装背带裤、“布拉吉”（连衣裙）。灰、蓝、绿成了流行色。：图1：列宁装图2：无彩中的一抹亮色——布拉吉图3：工装背带裤OncePLAtroopswereestablishedincities,peoplesoonimitatedthecadres’uniforms.TheChinesetunicsuit,ChairmanMaoZedong’sfavoriteandknownintheWestasthe“Maosuit”becamepopularamongChinesemen.Theoutfitfeaturessharplapelsandslantingpockets.Thegreenversionofthesameclothes,knownasmilitaryplain-clothes,latercameintovogue.解放初期，进驻各个城市的军队干部都穿中山装，人们争相效仿。于是，尖领斜兜的毛式中山装成为当时的主流男装款式，之后又出现了军便装等改良中山装系列。图4：中山装后来成为中国男子标准服装“干部服”Inthe1950sandearly60s,ChinesedresswasdeeplyinfluencedbytheSovietUnion.WomenworethefashionableLeninsuit,ajacket-and-trousercombinationfeaturingalargeturned-downcollar,doublelinesofbuttons,andslantingpockets.Abeltaroundwaistalsosilhouettedawoman’scurvyfigure.在50年代至60年代初，中国在穿着上受前苏联的影响很大。中国女性穿起了时髦的列宁装，这种大翻领、双排扣、斜口袋的套装或多或少带有装饰因素。它附加的腰带有助于女性身体线条的凸现。Alsointhe1950sandearly60s,mostChinesewomenlikedtowear“platyes”insummer.TheSovietfemaleexpertsworkinginChinaoftenwore“platyes”,featuringround-collars,looseshortsleeves,pleatedhemlinesandabelt.“Platyes”wereusuallyprintedwithdenseflower,tartanorstripedpatterns.Now,manymiddle-agedwomenarestillseenwearingmodified“platyes”insummer.50年代，身穿飘逸“布拉吉”的前苏联援华女专家成了大众直接模仿的对象。这种款式的特点是有简单的圆领、宽松的短袖、褶皱边、碎花、格子和条纹，腰间系一条带子，流行了很久，以至于现在许多中年妇女夏季的裙装还是褶皱稍加变化的“布拉吉”。Peoplehonoredphysicallaborandwhatcouldbetermeda“severestyle”.Womendressedincotton,andclothingmadeofexpensivesatinwasdiscarded.Girlslikedtowearbibandbraceoverallswhichhadachestpocket,andoftenchosebrimmedhatsandshoeswithrubbersolestogowiththem.50年代的人们崇尚劳动最光荣，朴素是时尚。女性摒弃了缎面，而采用棉布做衣服，年轻姑娘们曾一度爱上了背带工装裤。工装裤胸前有一个口袋，与之相配的一般是前檐工作帽、胶底布鞋。图5：雷锋帽（2）60年代：全民集体“撞衫”Intheearly1960s,Sino-SovietrelationswerestrainedandalmostovernightthepopularLeninsuitand“platyes”disappeared.Peopledressedinblueandgrey,shapelessclothes.Whenthe“cultralrevolution”(1966-76)began,onlymilitaryuniformscouldbeseeninChina.Menandwomenworethesamegarments.60年代，中苏关系全面恶化，曾经风行一时的列宁装、“布拉吉”几乎一夜之间销声匿迹。蓝灰为主的色调和肥大单一的款式诗这一时期中国服装的主要特点。随着60年代后期“文革”的开始，中国服装被淹没在了一片“国防绿”里，无论男女，军装成了最高时尚。图6：集体撞衫Chinawentthroughitshardesttimeintheearly60s.cottonproductionseverlydeclinedduringtheThreeYearsofNaturalDisaster(1959-61)resultinginlimitedclothsupply.Peoplehadtopurchaseclosthewithcoupons,sotheyusuallychosesolidmaterialsandlong-lastingblack,blueandgraycolors.60年代初期，是新中国历史上最艰苦的时期，由于3年自然灾害，棉花大幅减产，人们购衣须凭布票。为了尽可能地节约，购买服装的标准是耐磨和耐脏，黑、蓝、灰色成为街头流行色。Clothesfullofdarnsmarkedthehardtimes.Peopleneverdesertedtornclothes,butpatchedthemupinmanyplaces.“Handmedowns”becamepopularasitwascommontopassdownacoatfromelderbrothersorsisterstoyoungersiblings.PeoplecouldonlybuynewclothesduringtheSpringFestival.物质生活的极为匮乏体现在衣着上：“新三年，旧三年，缝缝补补又三年”。那时，穿补丁的衣服随处可见。家里小孩子多的，就只能“新老大，旧老二，缝缝补补给老三。”只有过年，才会有新衣裳。图7：绿色军便装Inthemid-1960s,stripedsailorshirtswerecommononthestreet.Theshirtswereearlierseenina1957ChinesemoviefeaturingstarsZhaoDanandWangDanfeng.60年代中期，走到大街上放眼一望，一水的蓝白相间横条纹的海军衫。在1957年由赵丹和王丹凤主演的电影《海魂》中，着装就是海魂衫。From1966onwards,youngmenworegreenuniformsmilitarycaps,aSamBrownebeltandmilitaryshoes.“文革”时，拥有一套军装是无数年轻人的理想。穿上军装，戴上军帽，腰扎皮带，足蹬解放鞋，代表着当时服装美的时尚。图8：海魂衫（3）70年代：的确良，喇叭裤The1970swasaneraofchange,inwhichthe“culturalrevolution”cametoanendandChinaenteredtheperiodofreformandopening-up.Atthistime,clothingmadeofdacronandbell-bottomedpantscameintopeople’sliveslikeabreathoffreshair.Theyrepresentedfashionandavant-courierandwerepopularwithbothmenandwomen.70年代，是一个转变的时代。“文化大革命”结束，中国进入了改革开放新时期。这时候，“的确良”和喇叭裤如一股清风闯进人们的生活，代表着时髦和前卫，男女都穿。Dacronwasusuallyusedtomakeshort-sleeveshirts.Accordingtocurrentfashion,dacronshirtsareneitherenvironmentally-friendlynorcomfortable.Thematerialhasbadair-permeabilityanddoesn’tabsorbssweatinsummer.Butasitiscrease-resistantandhardy,andtheprintlooksbrightandcolorful,itimpressedtheChinesewhohadlivedingraycolorsfordozensofyears.“的确良”通常用来做短袖衬衫。按现在的时尚观念来看，它既不环保，又不舒服，夏天透气性差，不吸汗，然而当成怎么穿都不皱、不破，印花颜色鲜亮的“的确良”，让沉浸在灰暗色系十几年的中国人顿时眼前一亮。Bell-bottomedpantslookedliketrumpets.Theywrappedthebuttockstightlywiththetrouserlegstightinthethighandlooseinthecalfsothecurvesofthehipandlegswereclearlypresented.Thepantswerelongenoughtocovertheh