制鞋业流程之-成型

鞋面与大底成型ASSEMBLEUPPER&O/S依照鞋子结构的不同,通常分车中底与结帮两种成型流程:Accordingtothedifferentshoeconstruction,therearetwokindsofassemblyprocedure,strobel&lasting.结帮流程又分为一次流程及两次流程或多次流程.Forthelastingconstruction,thereare3kindsofprocedure,onetimelasting&twotimeslastingormorethantwotimelasting.这里仅以一次结帮流程为例,了解成型的过程:Hereonlyshowtheonetimelastingprocedureforexampletoknowtheassemblyprocedure:1.浸康特SOAKTRCOUNTER1,浸康特时注意康特角不要浸胶。PaymoreattentiontothebottomofTRcountercan’tbesoaked.2﹐用镊子夹住康特放入513药水中,只要除康特脚外其他部分有碰到胶水,就马上取出来.浸胶不宜过久﹐过久会使康特软化。Clipthecounterwithforcepsandthenputitinto513primer.Don’tsoakcountertoolongtoavoidthecounterfromsoften.3﹐康特浸好后需放在铁纲滴干。Putthecounterontheironshelfaftersoaking.4﹐康特摆放铁架上凉干时不宜过久,不要超过15分钟。Makethecounterdrynotmorethan15minutes.5.操作员应戴上手套及口罩等环保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofglove&respirator.AppliedTooling:铁网Ironmeshwork手套Glove镊子forceps铁架Ironshelf1,从装鞋面的车架上取下鞋面,贴上流水标以便配双作业,剪断联机,放鞋面入流水带上.Taketheupperfromtheshelfandattachpairnumbersticker,thensnipthethreadthatmakeonepairofuppertogether,atlastputupperonconveyerbelt.2,剪线时不要剪到鞋面.Don’tbreaktheupperwhensnipthread.3.注意鞋面要配双.Note:Needmaketheupperpair.2.准备放鞋面PREPAREUPPERAppliedTooling:剪刀scissor1.取一小块泡棉,对折好再夹在夹子上,刷胶时将泡棉在胶水里浸一下.Preparealittlepieceoffoamorclothandfoldthennipitwithclamp.Soakamomentbeforecementing.2.从装楦头的车上取下楦头,将楦头底面周围10MM宽刷白胶Takethelastfromtheshelf,thencementaroundlastbottom10mmwidthwithlatex.3,刷胶时左手握楦头,右手拿夹子.刷胶要均匀到位.Duringcementing,thelefthandholdthelast&therighthandholdclamp.Makesuretocementevenlyandcompletely.4.操作员应戴上口罩等环保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofrespirators.3.楦头底刷白胶CEMENTLASTBOTTOMWITHLATEXAppliedTooling:夹子Clamp胶壶Gluepot4.中底正面刷白水胶CEMENTTHEINSOLEBOARD1.中底整形,压力30KG,时间5”.Moldtheinsoleboardwithpressure30kg&time5”.2,刷胶前将中底板排放整齐,左手压住中底板,右手拿刷子.Beforecementing,thelefthandholdthelast&therighthandholdclamp.3.用刷子沿中底上面周围15MM宽刷白胶,刷胶要均匀到位.Taketheinsoleboardfromtheshelf,thencementaroundthetopofinsoleboard15mmwidthwithlatex.Makesuretocementevenlyandcompletely.4.操作员应戴上口罩等环保用品.Theoperatorshouldwearthesafethingsofrespirators.AppliedTooling:夹子Clamp胶壶Gluepot5.鞋面后跟刷胶CEMENTHEELUPPER1.滚里及鞋面后跟两边擦黄胶,胶水要均匀,到位.不可积胶.Cementthebothsidesofcollarliningandheelupperwith766Nyellowglue.Makesuretocementevenly&completelybutnotamassintoapile.2,刷好胶的鞋面﹐按规定在流水在线排放整齐,保持顺畅的流程,流进烘箱。Puttheupperontheconveyerbeltinordertokeeptheproceduresmooththroughovenaftercement.3.设定烘箱的温度为70度,时间1分钟.Adjustthetemperature70&time1min.4.过此烘箱的作用是烘干胶水,软化鞋面.Letgluedry&softentheupperthroughtheoven.AppliedTooling:刷子Brush胶壶Gluepot鞋面后跟/滚里刷胶过烘箱6.贴后跟康特ATTACHEHEELCOUNTER1.左手拿鞋面﹐右手拉开内里.左手拿鞋面,右手如图所示拿康特,先使康特脚平齐画线,对准后跟中心点并贴死,再压康特的上沿固定.Lefthandholdtheupper,andtherighthandundrawthecollarlining.Theleftstillhandholdtheupper,andtherighthandholdthecounterasshownontheillustrationNo.2.Atfirstmakethebottomedgeofcounteralignthemarkline¢ermark,andpressthebottomcenterportionofcounter,thenpressthetopcenterportionofittofixthecenterposition.3.右手从中心点向两边固定康特下沿.Pressthecounterbottomfromthecenterportiontobothsides.4.5,固定康特外腰及内腰.Attachthelateral&medialportionofcounter.6.贴滚口内里并摸平.Atlastattachthecollarlining&makeitsmooth.4,固定康特外腰3,固定康特下沿5,固定康特内腰2,固定后跟中心点1,后跟滚里与鞋面须拉顺6,滚里贴死并摸平7.后跟康特整形MOLDHEELCOUNTER1,装上正确的定型模.通常热熔胶港宝用冷定型,康特用热定型,温度大约60度,压力5KG,时间大约8”.Setupthecorrectmoldingmold.Commonlyforhotmeltcounterusethecoolmold,forTRcounterusetheheatmoldwithtemp60&pressure5kg&time8sec.2.将装好康特的鞋面,分左右脚放在相应的定型模上.Puttheleft&rightupperwithcounteronthepropermouldspecially.3.使鞋面后跟中心对准后定型模的中心,再整型.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.定型机Backmoldingmachine定型模MoldingmoldAppliedTooling:8.贴中底ATTACHINSOLE1,左手拿楦头,右手拿中底,将中底中心点对准楦头中心点,从后跟往前贴.Thelefthandholdthelasttomakeupthebottom,andtherighthandholdtheinsoletomakethecentermatchthelast,thenattachtheinsoleonlastfromheeltofront.2.确保中底弧度与楦头弧度相吻合.Makesuretheinsolefitwithlast.9.鞋面余皮刷胶CEMENTTHETOELASTALLOWANCE1.通常对于一次流程的鞋面,均用白水胶刷鞋面余皮.对于多次流程的鞋面,均用PU胶刷鞋面余皮.Commonlyfortheshoethatonlyneedbelastedonetime,cementthelastallowancewithlatex.Fortheshoethatneedbelastedmorethanone,cementthelastallowancewithPUglue.2,左手拿鞋面,右手拿刷子.刷鞋面头庄余皮10mm宽.Thelefthandholdtheupper,andtherighthandholdthebrush,cementthetoelastallowancewithwidth10mm.3,刷胶要到位,均匀,但不能刷太高也不能溢胶.刷胶后放入流水线,送进烘箱.Cementingshouldbecomplete&evenbutnottoohighorcomeout.Putitontheconveyerbeltthroughtheovenaftercementing.4,烘箱温度设为80度,时间2分钟.Adjustthetemperature80&time2minofoven.5,过此烘箱的目的,使鞋面余皮的胶水干一些.MaketheglueforthelastingallowancedrythroughtheovenAppliedTooling:刷子Brush胶壶Gluepot鞋面结帮余皮刷胶过烘箱10.鞋头软化SOFTENTOPPORTION1.调整鞋头软化模的温度150-200度,时间8-10”.Adjustthetemperatureto150-200andtime8-10”ofmoldforsofteningtheupper.2.一般足球鞋或鞋面皮料较硬的鞋面需经过此流程软化,以免结帮后鞋面花角.Commonlyforthefootballshoeortheshoethatupperleatheristoosoft,bothneedthroughthisproceduretoavoidwrinkleafterlast.AppliedTooling:软化机Softenmachine11.前接帮TOELASTINGAppliedTooling:1.设定正确的前帮机使用参数,压头压力:35kg.压着时间:5秒,扫刀温度:室内自然温度.Setcorrectparameterforthetoelastingmachine:Pressure:35kg,time:5sec,temperatureofwiperastheindoor’s.2.前抓的排放要与楦头弧度相吻合.Theshapeofclawshouldfitthelast.3.前帮时,中心点要对正,前爪要抓齐印刷线(点),余皮按印刷线作业.Duringtoelasting,makesurethecenterm