来自美国的时尚摄影电子杂志

needle&threadPAGE3arTificialfuTurePAGE4annieandrogynyPAGE8OHBOY!PAGE9aLisoNdAvisPAGE19COPYRIGHT&DISCLAIMERReproductioninwholeorinpartwithoutwrittenpermissionbyCanvasisstrictlyprohibited.Allinformationandcreditsareaccurateatthetimeofpublicatoin,butaresubjecttochange.HTTP://CANVASMAGAZINE.NET©2008CANVASMAGAZINEWelcometoourGenderissue.Theideaofandrogyny,thatofbeingbothmaleandfemale,iscertainlynothingnew,particularlywhenitcomestopop-culturalicons.Yetitseemstobecomingintofashion’sconsciousness,thankstoRaf,AlexandreandLangtonamebutafew.Overthelastfewseasonswehaveseenthesharpestoflinesandthetrendlookssettocontinuewellinto2008.IspeakfromexperiencewhenIsaytherecomesacertainpowerwithdressinglikeaman.It’saminimal,chic,sophisticatedlookthatdoesn’trequiretoomuchdetailbutcreatesthestrongestofsilhouettesthatmodernisefashion.WhatIfindinterestinginourcurrentfashionclimateisanythingthatblurs,transformsorrecreatesgender.Oneofthisissue’sfeaturearticlesisontailoredwomensweardesigner,Dhini,whoseAutumn/Winter08collectionepitomisesthisnewaesthetic.Someoftheideasinthisissueareobvious,whileothersrequirealittlemorelateralthinkingbutwehopeyouenjoyourlatestedition.CATHERINEMCPHEEEDITOR/CREATIVEDIRECTORCREATIVEDIRECTOR/FOUNDERCatherineMcPheeDESIGNERJamesJohnstonEDITORIALMANAGERCatherineMcPheeFASHIONDIRECTORCatherineMcPheeCONTRIBUTINGPHOTOGRAPHERSMARTINBLEASDALELACHLANBOYLEJASONHENLEYCOVERSHOTPHOTOGRAPHYMartinBleasdaleHAIRLisaGuardalaMAKEUPMarniRobinsonMODELPJ@DallysthegenderissueFromBalenciaga’sstapleblazertoKarenWalker’smancuttrousers,thisyear’sAutumn/Winterinternationalrunwayshavemimickedtheandrogynousstyling’sofDianneKeatoninher1977film,AnnieHall.Wearingties,trousersandvests,DianneKeaton’scharacterhaspavedthewayforcelebritystyleandfashiontoday.WitnessedonthelikesofKateMossandAgynessDeyn,manstylebrogues,collaredshirtsandbowtieshavebecomemust-havepiecesforthisseason.Howeveritisnotonlyinternationaldesignerswhoaremixingmasculinewithfeminine--jewellerydesignersaretoofeelingthepressuretoappealtobothgenders.TwoBrisbaneyouthhavecreatedajewellerylineaimedatbothfashionforwardboysandgirls.NeedleandThread,thebrainchildofMarishaParker,20,andPatriceLowrie,21,wasformedinApril2007.Theirdebutcollection,whichtheytermed,the‘rewind,fastforward,pause,play’collection,isstronglyimmersedinthemusicsceneoftheeighties.“Weareeightiesbabies,everythingretroandvintageiscomingbacksowewantedtopayhomagetoit,”Patricesaid.NEEDLEANDTHREAD’SLASERCUTJEWELLERYSETSANEWSTANDARDWITHITSEIGHTIESREFERENCEANDANDROGYNOUSCAPABILITIES.TEXTCHARLOTTEEVANSPHOTOGRAPHYLACHLANBOYLENeedLe&THREADTheandrogynousjewellerylinewhichconsistsofnecklacesandbroochesisformedfrombrightlycolouredacetateplastic,cutbyalasermachineandstrungonsterlingsilverchains.Incapitalletters,NeedleandThread,captivateallthingseightiesintheirdesignsbyusingwittyandboldstatements,bothmusicalandemotionaltocaptivatetheiraudience.“Wecameupwiththephrasesforthenecklacesfrommusicaltermswerememberhearing,orhaveseeninmovies,”Marishasaid.Piecesofthecollectionincludenecklaceswithsloganssuchas‘BeMyFan’,‘BoomboxBaby’,‘Transparent’and‘Tripthelightfantastic’,aswellasplayfulbroochesfeaturingghostsandelephants.Althoughoriginallywantingtodoclothing,thegirlsfoundthattherewasagapinthemarket,especiallyinBrisbane,forthisparticularkindofjewellery.“Weweretiredofwearingotherpeople’sart.Wewerehavingarealdifficulttimecomingtotermswithourownstyleandwhatwewantedtoexpress,andcouldn’tfindanythingouttherethatwouldhelpusdefinewhowewere,sowejustcreatedourownjewellerytorepresentourquirkinessandstyle”.“Girlsaredressingsoboyishatthemomentanditseemsessentialforaboytobewearinganecklace,soourlinewascreatedaroundthisidea.It’sagreatgenreoffashionthat’saroundrightnow--socreativeandempowering”.NeedleandThread’sfirstcollectioniscurrentlyavailable[e-mail]/[e-mail]APHyJASONHENLEYSTylINgJANABARTOLOMODElANNAFISHER@SCENEHAIRLYNDALSALMONCREATIVEDIRECTOR@BIBAMAkE-UPLOUMCLARENALLGARMENTSDHINICOUTUREA/W2008TEXTCHARLOTTEEVANSARTificialfuTuReDhini’slatestcollectionhasbroughttogethertheseriousnessandstrengthofmen’stailoringfrom19thcenturyLondontocreateacollectionthatwillempowerfashionforwardwomen.Thecollectionentitled‘ArtificialFuturec.1890’,demonstratesDhini’sabilityasadesignerandshowcaseshercouturetrainingtocreateatrulyuniqueandwearableAutumn/Wintercollectionfor2008.Fascinatedthatwomen’sclothingduringthe19thCenturywasdesigneddirectlyfrommen’stailoring,DhinidelvedintothehistoryofSavileRowtailoringandmoderniseditsmaincomponentstocreateacollectionwearableforwomentoday.“Istudiedup-closespecific19thcenturymenandwomen’stailoredpieceswhicharehousedintheFashionandTextilesarmoftheNationalGalleryofVictoria,”Dhinisaid.Inhercurrentcollection,Dhinihasmanagedtoturnpiecesfromtheexhibitionintowearablegarmentsfortoday.An1890’sjacketwithatrompel’oeillapelwastheinspirationbehindtheWingCollarshirtanda19thcenturyequestriandressformedthe