服装行业资料-衬衫的生产工艺(PPT 50页)

1衬衫的生产工艺20Hrs内容一、衬衫生产企业调研二、衬衫款式描述三、男装衬衫生产工艺流程图四、男装衬衫缝制工艺五、衬衫生产的质量控制2目的要求了解衬衫企业动态了解传统与新潮男装衬衫款式基本特征学习并掌握衬衫工艺流程与工艺分析掌握男装衬衫缝制工艺与质量控制掌握格子衬衫的生产工艺与要求了解衬衫面料的选择本章重点新潮衬衫缝制工艺设计衬衫工艺流程与工艺分析格子衬衫的生产工艺衬衫缝制的质量要求与控制实习操作格子男装衬衫的缝制3参考资料（中国纺织出版社）教材：【成衣工艺学】吴铭、张小良P171参考文献服装制作工艺——实训手册（许涛、第三章衬衫缝制工艺）成衣缝制工艺与管理——成衣产业时代作（陆鑫、第四章衬衫缝制工艺）实物样板零部件步骤板成品样板网络信息与资料FoldersandAttachments:1、衬衫企业案例富绅集团有限公司遵循“千锤百炼，富绅精品”的企业宗旨引进国外先进设备，采用一流的工艺和技术，生产出国内新一代高档衬衫产品以做工精湛，选料严谨，设计新颖包装精美，稳居国内衬衫行业中的领先地位领口形的“V”字形标志，更成为顶级衬衫的象征一、衬衫生产企业调研5金利来集团有限公司1990年，香港著名爱国人士曾宪梓博士创立领导的金利来集团有限公司香港上市公司，总部设于香港，并在中国、新加坡及德国设立分公司，使业务得到全面发展。业务包括服装服饰的生产和零售及物业发展「金利来──男人的世界」声名远播，享誉四方6专业衬衫厂的特点拥有专业的生产设备专业埋夹、上袖、门筒车热熔粘合机圆领机翻领机吸线机辅助设备有专业的生产线生产规模化工序标准化产品高质量工序简单化（工序合并）84人一组通过网络信息，寻找3家衬衫企业评论该3家企业的相关特点规模生产设备先进性加工方式流水线与技术特征产品特征工艺质量其它要求完成PPT文档进行课堂演示课后小组作业9二、款式描述1、便装衬衫前幅（前中开口、口袋等）后幅（担干、活褶）领子（一片、二片）下摆（平脚、园脚）袖子（短袖、长袖）102、紧身衬衫（传统男装衬衫）前幅（前中明筒开口、口袋等）后幅（担干、工字褶）领子（二片领）下摆（平脚、园脚）袖子（长袖、袖级、三尖袖叉）113、新潮款式前后幅特征领子下摆前明同胸袋袖口特殊款式细节个性化时装化休闲化12三、衬衫生产工艺流程131、流程图设计流程图一MakingupaMen’sDressShirt2、生产流水线的平衡考虑大量生产工序细分情况工人技术设备先进性产品质量高低其它141、裁片准备前幅*2后幅*1明筒*1明筒衬里*1四、缝制工艺与实训指导15袖子*2担干*2领子（上下级）*2口袋*1袖级*2三尖袖侧（大小）*2领子衬里（上下级）*1袖级衬里*2大小袖侧*2162、零部件缝制领子落插竹（可省略）粘衬：上下级粘衬、领角衬包下级领脚：1CM子口，0.5CM间线画领子实样（纸板辅助）运上级领（RS-RS）修子口，反烫领子（领尖对称）间上级领0.6CM线17运下级翻领线修子口，反烫翻领线间翻领边线熨烫检查A.VariousCollarOperations18A.VariousCollarOperationsHemsthecollarbandbeforeitisattachedtothecollarPleasespecifyhemsizeandstitchmargin.WerecommendanedgeguidefoottomaintainpropermarginsFootandGuideassistinturningandtopstitchingfrontandbackcollarbandsaftertheyhavebeensewntothecollar.Producesaconsistentstitchmarginalongthebead.19袖级粘衬：面袖级粘衬包袖级衬、子口1CM、0.6CM间线运袖级（实样辅助）运袖级：RS-RS,头未回针袖子口、翻烫袖级间袖级边线烫袖级检查G.CuffHemming-LongSleeve20三尖袖叉剪袖叉烫大小袖叉，注意左右对称H.SettingSleevePlackets21夹小袖侧夹大修侧，车缝袖叉横位运烫检查22H.SettingSleevePlacketsUsedtosewacontinuousfacingaroundthesleeveopening.Folderisdesignedforeasyloadingofshortpieces.Edgeguidefootisrecommended.Designedforsewingshortpiecesinstraightrunsonthesleeveopening.Foldersareavailableintopandbottomsetswhencutsizesoftopandbottomplacketstripsaredifferent.Edgeguidefootisrecommended.23前幅烫右前幅钮筒宽度3CM车钮筒3CM线粘左明筒衬，并烫子口（3CM宽）运反间左明筒（0.6CM线）K.AttachCenterPlacket24K.AttachCenterPlacketTopCenterFolderAttachesthecenterplaittotheshirtbody.Folderfeaturesaseparateconcaveliningtrack,whichallowseasierstartsforalltypesoffabricsandatightfinisharoundthelining.Bedplatemountorswingbracketmountisavailable.Bodyhemmerprovidedwithfolder.Pleasespecify:man'sorladies'shirt-liningfromrightorleft.25点左胸袋位还2CM袋口，烫袋形绱三尖胸袋（边线或0.6CM线）运烫前幅C.PocketHemmingThisattachmentisusedtohemthetopsofpockets.Manydifferentfolderstylesareavailabletosuityourparticularneed.Pleasespecifyfinishedsize,stitchmargin,andtheamountofin-tuckrequired.Specialpresserfootrecommended.26后幅打褶（工字褶或活褶）运担干B.YokingAndShoulderJoining27合并前后幅（明线或暗线方式）明线连接前后肩线（RS-RS）间明线肩线（据款式需求）28B.YokingAndShoulderJoiningUsedtoattachtheyoketothefrontandbackpanelsoftheshirt.Bothfolderscanbemadeleftorright.Thisfolderturnsdownthetopplyandjoinsittotwoadditionalplys.Thebottomplyisthenturnedbacktoformtheyoke.Specialfootisrecommended.FootandGuideassistinturningandtopstitchingfrontandbackcollarbandsaftertheyhavebeensewntothecollar.Producesaconsistentstitchmarginalongthebead.29绱袖（5线锁边或包缝）：对齐刀口位与左右袖方向缝合侧骨（5线锁边或包缝）J.SleeveSetting30J.SleeveSettingTherearetwotypesofvariationsfortheSleeveSettingSingleNeedleSleevingSetofguidesforjoiningthearmholetothesleeveonhighqualityshirts.Adjustablemarginsettings.Specialpresserfootisrecommended.Turnsthesleeveupasthebodyispulledoverandstitcheddown.Producesaqualityfinishandappearance.Specialpresserfootisrecommended.31I.ClosingSideSeamsLapSeamFoldersLapseamfoldersareusedtoclosesideseams.Lapseamfoldercanalsobemadewithaspringrelease,whichwillallowsleeveseamtopassthroughfreely.Pleasespecifymakeandgaugeofmachineandsendmaterialwithasampleofthesleeveseams.32D.CuffHemming-ShortSleeveInadditiontotheplainhemmer,avarietyoffoldersareavailableforfinishingshortsleeves.Twoofthemostpopularareillustratedbelow.ThesefoldersmayalsobeusedtohemthetopsofpocketsProducestailoredcuffonknitanddressshirts.Maybeusedonlockstitchorchainstitchmachines.Stripesandplaidsareeasilymatched.Pipingandothertypesoftrimmayalsobeadded.Specialedgeguidefootisrecommended.Producesatailoredcuffonknitanddressshirts.Mustbeusedonlockstitchmachines.Specialfootisrecommended.33夹袖级：注意底面G.CuffHemming-LongSleeve34G.CuffHemming-LongSleeveForuseonlockstitchmachineswithliningandfacegoodsinshortpieces.Hemmerisadjustabletoallowfordifferentsizeliningandfacegoods.Pleasespecifyhemsizeandstitchmargin.Specialpresserfootisrecommended.Foruseonchainstitchmachineswithlininginrollsandfacegoodsinpiecesorrolls.Hemmerisadjustabletoaccommodatedifferentsizeliningandfacegoods.Pleasespecifyhemsizeands