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AncientChineseArticlesofClothing中国古代服装检验一班:刘晓娟、李若冰、王彦文中国,被称为“衣服土地”的地方,在服装文化发展上有着悠久的历史。不同时期的衣服在一定程度上反映了政治、经济、军事、宗教和特定的历史阶段的民间习俗的情况。China,knownasalandofdresses,hasalonghistoryinthedevelopmentofitsclothingculture.Dressesindifferentperiodsreflect,toacertainextent,thesituationofthepolitics,economy,militaryaffairs,religions,andthecivilcustomsofthespecifichistoricalstages.Chineseclothinginthepastdynastiescanberoughly(粗略的)dividedintothefollowingcategories:1.theremotetimes;2.theShangandZhouDynasties;3.theQinandHanDynasties;4.theWei,Jin,andNorthernandSouthernDynasties;5.theSui,Tang,songandtheFiveDynasties;6.theLiao,Jin,andYuanDynasties;7.theMingDynasty;8.theQingDynasty;9.moderntimes.HanDynastyTangDynastyQingDynasty秦朝时他们穿的半长衣所交掩之曲裾虽较浅,但仍为深衣之属,其下身着长裤,腰系施钩之革带。这种装束在西汉时仍广泛流行,裤也逐渐向全社会普及。冠制的确立是在汉代实现的。汉代的冠则主要从属于服制,是身份、官职以至官阶的表征。身份低微的人,只能戴帻而不能戴冠。冠本为加于发髻上的一个发罩,并不覆盖整个头顶。帻则像一顶便帽。汉代妇女一般将头发向后梳成下垂的圆髻,名椎髻。常着深衣,女式深衣之华丽者名衣,它的曲裾不但在下身缠绕好些层,且在其斜幅上缀以三角形物及长飘带。InQin&HanDynastyalsodarkclothing,trousers.CrownsystemisestablishedintheHanDynasty.Hanwomengenerallywillbedressingthehairbackhairbunhanginground.AndHanChineseclothingisverybeautifulandpopular.Qin&HanHanChineseclothing●bugle-shapedlap(喇叭状下摆)●crosscollarstyle(usuallyoverlaptherightcollartotheleftone交领右衽)●hidethebandandthebuttons(隐扣束带)●bigrobeandsleeves(宽袍大袖)●influencedJapanesekimonoandKoreanhanbokakindofChinese-stylejacketwithbuttonsdownthefront.(对襟)Girdling\tunic.(束腰)widesleeves.(衣袖宽大)唐代服制,出现了“法服”与“常服”并行的局面。作为大礼服的法服仍是传统的冠、冕、衣、裳,常服则是在鲜卑装的基础上改进而成。唐代男子上自皇帝下至厮役,在日常生活中都穿常服,包括圆领缺袍、幞头、革带及长靴。唐代女装主要由裙、衫、帔组成。这时常将衫掩于裙内,所以显得裙子很长。帔又名帔帛,像一条长而薄的披巾。FromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak,thepoliticalstabilityandeconomicdevelopment,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,thefrequentforeignrelations,contributingtothethedevelopmentofclothing.由隋入唐,中国古代服装发展到全盛时期,政治的稳定,经济的发达,生产和纺织技术的进步,对外交往的频繁等促使服饰空前繁荣,服装款式、色彩、图案等都呈现出前所未有的崭新局面,而这一时期的女子服饰,可谓中国服装中最为精彩的篇章,其冠服之丰美华丽,妆饰之奇异纷繁,都令人目不暇接。Skirt、shirt、shortembroideredcape(wornoverawoman‘sshoulders)帔(披肩)。theskirtseemsverylong.TangChineseclothing●bold●colorful●variousstyles●sexyEmpressBold大胆Colorful绚丽多彩Manystyles款式多样Sexy性感宋代服装大体沿袭唐制。这时的幞头(PuTou)内衬木骨、外罩漆纱,宋人称之为“幞头帽子”,可随意脱戴,这时,皇帝和高官戴的展脚幞头,两脚向两侧平直伸出,可达数尺。身份低的公差、仆役等,则多戴无脚幞头。宋代妇女也穿裙和衫,这时的衫子多为对襟,盖在裙外。裙较窄,多施细摺,宋代妇女在裙内着裤。起于五代时的缠足,至北宋晚期已逐渐流行。Men:Wearasoftclothofsurroundingthehead.Women:Skirt、shirt、Offtwolapel,buttonsinthemiddleofthechest.Insidethepantsintheskirt.FootbindingYuanDynastyclothesisMongolianapparels.SlaveOfficerEmperorCivilianQueen、PrincessEmperorEmpressWeddingWearasoftclothofsurroundingthehead(幞头)withdark,socalledWushamao(乌纱帽).Andtheciviliancan’twearit.Alsodrawsomedesignsinthechestandback.DifferentdesignsofdifferentgradeTonsure、Changeclothes.(剃发易服)Manchucustoms(满族习俗)Dressedbraiding,braidhangingbehind,wearingthinhorse-hoof-shapedcuffArrowclothing,tightsocks,darkboots.(剃发留辫,辫垂脑后,穿瘦削的马蹄袖箭衣、紧袜、深统靴。)(intheQingDynasty)officialcapshowingvariousranksbybuttonofpreciousstoneontop(清代区别官员等级的帽饰)Womenwear:Cheongsam,\Manchuflagcostume(旗袍)Flowerpotshoes(花盆底鞋)Hairstylelikeagreatwing.(“两把头”、“大拉翅”)QingChineseclothing●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapelofjunctiondecoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoatorjacket(增加坎肩或马褂)QingChineseclothing●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)flagcostumeShowthetenderofOrientalwomenThedollsalsowearChineseancientcostumeclothing,itisthusclearthatChineseancientcostumeclothingisverybeautifulandpopular.(Let’sappreciatethelastpictrues)Chinaisahistoricalcountrywithsplendidcivilizations(文明),inwhichtheChinesecostume(中国服装)isanimportantpart.FromthechangeofChinesecostumes,wecanseethepoliticalchange,economicdevelopmentandcustomsevolvementthroughthelonghistory.AndweknowtheChinesecostume,whichitselfhasover5,000years’history,isjustlikealongriver.Ibelievethatweallhaveknewsomethingbythepictureswejustsaw.AndIhopeyouwilllikethisintroductionandtheChinesecostume.CuteBeautifulThanksforwatching!
本文标题:中国古代服装_中英版
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