服装厂面料检验之四分制

PROCESSEDFABRICINSPECTIONUNDER4–POINTSYSTEMAllfabricinspectionsconductedbyTextileLinksandControlsisaccordingtothefour-pointfabricinspectionsystem.Thefour-pointsystemderivesitsnamefromthebasicgradingrulethatamaximumoffourpenaltypointscanbeassessedforanysingledefectandthatnolinearmetercanbeassignedmorethanfourpointsregardlessofthenumberofdefectswithinthatpiece.PENALTYPOINTEVALUATION:Defectsinbothwarp/filldirectionswillbeassignedpointsunderthefollowingcriteria.DefectRangePointsEvaluationUpto3inches1Point3inches6inches2Points6inches9inches3Points9inches4PointsWHATISADEFECT?Thelengthofthedefectisusedtodeterminethepenaltypoints.Onlymajordefectsareconsidered.Amajordefectisanydefect,iffoundonafinishedproduct,wouldclassifytheproductasaB-grade.Anydefectofacontinuousnatureshallbeassignedfourpointsforeachmeterinwhichitoccurs.Severedefectsareassignedthemaximumfourpointsforeachmeterinwhichtheyoccur.Example:Regardlessofsize,aholewouldbepenalizedfourpoints.Continuingconditionssuchasbarre,sidecentersideshading,rolltorollshading,narroworirregularwidth,creasing,unevenfinishshallbecountedfourpointsforeverymeterwithintheshipmentthatisfoundtocontaintheseconditions,providedthatthearticlethatistobemadefromthisfabricisclassifiedB-gradeduetothisfault.Themaximumpenaltyforanyone-metershallnotbemorethanfourpoints.AminordefectisanydefectthatdoesnotclassifytheproductasB-gradebecauseofeitherseverityorlocation.Wheninspectingfabricbeforecutting,itisnecessarytoratequestionabledefectsasmajor,sincetheinspectorwillnotknowwherethedefectmayoccurontheitem.RunningDefects:Anymajordefectfoundtorepeatand/orruninacontinuousmannerwillconstitutearunningdefect.Allmajorrunningdefectsmustbeassignedfourpenaltypointstoeverymeterintherollwhereitoccurs.FullWidthDefects:Afullwidthmajordefectwouldcausethatmeteroffabrictobeassignedfourpenaltypoints.FabricWidth:Fabricwidthwillbecheckedminimumofthreetimesduringtheinspectionofaroll(beginning,middleandendoftheroll).Rollshavingwidthlessthanthespecifiedarepotentialproblems.Insuchcaseswidthdeviationofmorethan1%wouldconstituteamajorfault.Overall,fabricwidthismeasuredfromoutsideoftheselvagetotheoutsideoftheoppositeselvage.RollLength:Rollshavingmeterslessthanthatstatedonthepackingareaproblem.Anyrollhavingmorethan1%lesserfabricthanthatspecifiedisrejected.Theentireshipmentshallberejectedifthetotalmeasuredmetersinthesampleauditaremorethan1%shortthatwhatisdeclaredonthepacking.Splices:Rollscanbecomposedofseveralsplicedparts.Norollshallbeacceptedthatcontainsasplicelessthantwentyfive(25)metersinlengthunlessotherwiseexpresslyaccepted.Ensurethatthe95%oftheshipmentcontains100meterplusfabriclengthifthefabricisbeingusedformade-ups.Incaseofpiecegoods,thefabriclengthandthenumberofsplices/rollarestrictlyfollowedaspertherequirementofthecustomer.Bow&Skew:Norollshallbeacceptedasfirstqualitythatexhibitboworskewmorethan:Theaboveissubjecttochangeifbuyerrequiresatightertolerance/natureofdesign/enduseofthefabric.Toleranceforbowedconditionnotaffectingthefullwidthwillbefractionalizedpartofthemaximumsasstatedaboveaccordingtotheareaaffectedbythebow.Penaltypointswillnotbeassignedforfabricsfoundtohaveconditionsofbowinginexcessoftheabovestatedtolerancesbutshallbenotedintheinspectionreport.Andifanyfabricexhibitsboworskewwhereitsendusebecomesdoubtful,thenthatfabricwillberejected.FabricOdors:Norollshallbeacceptedthatexhibitsobjectionableodors.Holes:Alldefectsthatbreakthefabric,regardlessofsize,shallbepenalizedamaximumoffourpoints.Aholeconsistsoftwoormorebrokenyarns.CommonFabricFaults:Althoughfabricfaultsarenumerousbutsomeofthecommonfabricfaultsarementionedbelow:AbrasionMark:Aplaceinthefabricwherethesurfacehasbeendamagedduetofrictionorabnormallyweakenedbyanyoperationthroughwhichithasbeenpassed.FabricWidthMaximumBoworSkewDesignPrint/dyesDeviationUpto45inches2.0%2.0%60inches2.0%2.0%90inchesandabove2.0%2.0%Bow:Whenthefillingyarnslyeinanarcacrossthewidthofthefabric.Skew:Distortionintheconstructionofthefabrici.e.intheyarnthatconstitutethefabric.Crease:Afabricdefectacrossthefabricwidthusuallycausedbyasharpfold.OilStain:Oilmarkonthefabric.DyeStain:Anareaofdiscolorationduetoun-evenabsorptionofcolorant.Hole:Abreakinthefabricinvolvingmorethantwoyarns.Mispick:Apicknotproperlyinterlaced.DoublePick:Twoyarnsrunningsimultaneously,mostlyintheweft.Misprint:Inprintedfabrics,eithermissed,orpartiallymissed,orincorrectlypositionedrelativetoeachother.Slub:Anabruptlythickenedplaceinayarn.ScreenOut:Theappearanceofacoloredseparationlineinaprinteddesign.CalendarLine:Sharppressmarkonfabricduetothecalendarduringtheprocessing.Contamination:Coloredfiberswiththewarporweftfibers.POINTCALCULATIONS:Thefollowingfabricpenaltypointgradingstandardsaretobeusedwheninspectingfabrics.IndividualRollPoints:Alldecisionsarebasedonasquaremetercomputation.Thefollowingisusedtodeterminethepointcountforeachroll.(Totalpoints*3937)/(Inspectedmeters*Fabricwidth(inches))=Pointsper100squaremeter.Points:Thetotalpointcountpercontractfabriciscalculatedby:Addingthenumberofmetersaudited.Addingthenumberofpointspe