针织完全教程-I

OIQualityTrainingCourseContentsCircularKnittedFabricsA.FabricsMadewithaSingleSetofNeedles(SingleKnits)i.SingleJersey-SingleJerseywithElastane-Pique’-Lacoste-BabyFrenchTerry-JacquardiiTerryiii.FrenchTerryB.FabricsMadeonTwoNeedleBeds(DoubleKnits)i.Interlockii.DoubledKnittedFabricsiii.DoubleKnitted-JacquardivRibShaftWeaving:Schematic梭(平)织法简图WarpingCircularKnittingMachine大筒圆编針织机CircularKnittingMachine大筒圆编針织机弹力单面布SingleJerseywithElastane单面四角网眼布Piqué单面六角网眼布Lacoste单面四段鱼鳞布BabyFrenchTerry单面布提花Jacquard正包毛巾布ReversePlaitingTerry反包毛巾布/天鹅绒Velour毛巾刷毛布TerryBrush蚂蚁刷毛BucklyFleece毛巾提花布TerryJacquard双面刷毛PolarFleece(bothsidebrushed,combed&sheared)摇粒布Antipillingpolarfleece单刷单摇Onesidebrushed,combed,sheared&anti-pilling双刷单摇Bothsidebrushed,combed,shearedbutonlyonesideanti-pilling双刷双摇Bothsidebrushed,combed,sheared&anti-pilling单面布SingleJersey毛巾布Terry毛圈布FrenchTerry斜纹毛圈布TwillFrenchTerry拉毛布Fleece棉毛布(双罗纹组织)Interlock双面组织布DoubleKnittedFabrics双面布提花DoubleKnitted-Jacquard罗纹布Rib双面布网眼DoubleKnitted-Piqué健康布(棉盖涤,吸湿快干)HealthyFabric猪皮布PigSkin双面纱卡布Sucker法式罗纹布FrenchRib罗纹Rib1×1罗纹Rib2×2花式罗纹FancyRib(如1×1+2×2)提花罗纹(如用结构来提花)RibJacquard移圈罗纹RibPointelle针织KnittedFabrics经编WarpKnittedFabrics纬编WeftKnittedFabrics单面布系列Fabricsmadewithasinglesetofneedles(SingleKnits)双面布系列Fabricsmadeontwoneedlebeds(DoubleKnits)交叉毛圈布CrossFrenchTerry(MiniFrenchTerry)ClassificationofKnittedFabrics针织分类DefinitionafterISO7839:1984Knittedfabricsaremadefrominterlockingloops,formedfromasingleyarnorfrommany.Theyareclassifiedintoweftknittedandwarpknittedfabrics.Characteristics特性•Maybemadefromasingleyarn.(可用单支纱织成)•Theyarnisfedcrosswisetothelengthofthefabric.(横向织法)•Canbeunravelled(会脱散);mayladder.(呈梯状)•Knittingneedlescanworksequentiallyoralltogether.(所有的针可按顺序或同时进行编织)Characteristics特性•Requiresafullwarpsheet.(需要整片经面)•Theloop-formingyarnsarefedinthedirectionofthelengthofthefabric.(直向织法)•Cannotbeunravelled,usuallydoesnotladder.(不会脱散,不呈梯状)•Knittingneedlesalwaysworktogetherasaunit.(所有的针同时进行编织)纬编经编针织布Production一根纱在纬向的每一根针上成圈SequentialloopformationonaflatmachineSequentialneedles:Machinescanbeflatorcircular.Needlesareusuallyofthelatchtype.(机台可分平编和圆编)一根纱在经向相邻的几根针上成圈LoopformationonawarpknittingmachineWarpknitting:Warpknittingusesoneormorewarpsheets.Eachyarnisloopedaroundaneedleandtheneedlesareallmovedtogether.(每一支纱在一根针上成圈,所有的针同时进行工作)WeftKnittedFabricsWarpKnittedFabrics纬编经编LatchNeedlesNeedlesandSinkerforSingleKnittingMachine单面针织机之针和沉降片NeedlesforDoubleKnittingMachine双面针织机之针单面针织机SingleKnittingMachine双面针织机DoubleKnittingMachine中间空心中间实心Single&DoubleKnittingMachines單面針织機平均一天24小時的產量約為250–500Kg/布雙面針织機平均一天24小時的產量約為250Kg/布依布種及紗的粗細不同產能不同,紗越細產能越低,紗越粗產能越高SingleKnittingMachine单面针织机鸟瞰图LoopFormation起针挺针退圈垫纱/弯纱脱圈/成圈LatchNeedlesTheIntermeshingofLoopsHead(theneedleloop),twolegs,andtwofeet.Thefeetjoiningtwoadjacentloopsformthesinkerloop.Fabricisformedbyintermeshingloops.Eachloophasfourintermeshingpointsintwopairs.Thelegswithinapairmustalwaysintermeshinthesamesense;bothlegslyingeitherunderorovertheheadoftheprecedingloop.Theupperpairmayintermeshintheoppositesensetothelowerpair,dependingontheconstruction.Loopcharacteristics網狀交織結合點FaceandBackofKnittedLoops(针织布的正反面)Thelowerpairofmeshingpointsdeterminewhethertheloopisafacelooporabackloop.Abackloop,isformedwhentheloopisdrawnthroughthepreviousloopinadirectionawayfromtheviewer:thelegsofthelooplieundertheheadoftheprecedingloop.Afaceloop,isformedwhentheloopisdrawnthroughthepreviousloopinadirectiontowardstheviewer:thelegsofthelooplieovertheheadoftheprecedingloop.Backloop反面成圈Faceloop正面成柱圈Head柱LegCoursesandWales纬向和经向Acourseisarowofloopsproducedbyadjacentneedlesduringthesameknittingcycle.Awaleisacolumnofloopsproducedbythesameneedleonsuccessiveknittingcycles.Acourse纬向Awale经向BasicConstructionofCircularKnittedFabrics针织布的基本组织1.Knit成圈2.Tuck集圈*3.Miss(Float)不成圈如網眼布Piqué如提花布Jacquard*吃紗不成圈謂之集圈.一次不脫圈稱為一次集圈,二次不脫圈稱為二次集圈,鉤中會出現三根紗,一根為底紗,加上二次集圈,等於有三根紗.如單面針織布SingleJerseyTuckandFloat(Miss)LoopsAtuckstitchcomprisesaheldloopandatuckloop,bothintermeshedinthesamecourse.(由成圈與集圈組成)Heldloop:alooppulledthroughtheloopofthepreviouscourseandretainedbytheneedleoveroneormorecourses.(成圈)Tuckloop:alengthofyarnreceivedbyaneedlebutnotpulledthroughtheloopofthepreviouscourse.(一根紗在針上吃紗但不成圈,掛在下一路的線圈上)Float(miss)loop:alengthofyarnnotreceivedbyaneedleandconnectingtwoloopsofthesamecoursethatarenotinadjacentwale.(一根紗不與緊鄰的縱向紗圈相結合,而跳開與同排近鄰的紗圈相結合.)AtuckstitchAfloat(ormiss)loopAtuckloop集圈不成圈LoopFormation起针挺针退圈垫纱/弯纱脱圈/成圈LatchNeedlesNeedlestartstoascendNeedleascends&crosseshorizontaledgeofthemachineLoopdescendsYarnisfedontoneedle,thenlatchclosesandneedledescendsLoopisthereforeformedPlain,SingleJerseyThisstructureismadewithonlyasinglesetofneedles.Itiscalledsingleface,plainorsinglejersey.(Jerseyisageneralnameforknittedfabrics.Itisnotrestrictedtoanyparticularstructure.(单面针织布是由一套针织成的)Thetwosidesofthefabrichaveadifferentappearance.Onesideshowsonlyfaceloops,theothersideonlybackloops.(正面呈现柱状,反面呈现弧圈)Ithasrelativelylowextensibilityinthewidthandtendstocurlattheedges.(单面针织布的横向延展性不大,布边趋向卷曲)Plain,facebackproductionCross-tuck(Piqué)交叉集圈Piqué-stylereliefpa