纺织(羊毛―蚕丝)..

CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision1BasicknowledgeforTextile纺织基础知识TextileTechnicalTraining纺织技术培训Silk&Wool蚕丝&羊毛PreparedBy:LastAmended:JulietzhuqinyanVersion:1.010July.06CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision2Silk蚕丝CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision31Introduction介绍2SilkamountinChina&world蚕丝产量分布3Varieties品种4Characteristics特点5SilkwormGrowth&Cocoon蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成6Silkmanufacturing蚕茧的工艺加工7Silkwearproperty蚕丝的服用性能CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision41Introduction介绍Silkisanaturalproteinfiber.fine,horny,translucent,yellowishfiberproducedbythesilkworminmakingitscocoonandcoveredwithsericin,aprotein.蚕丝是一种天然蛋白质纤维，纤细，透明，截面呈不规则三角形，色泽微黄，是蚕的腺分泌物吐出后凝固形成线状长线，外层包覆丝胶。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision52SilkamountinChina&world蚕丝产量分布Domestic:zhujiangTaihuChengdu国内分布：珠江太湖成都CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision62SilkamountinChina&world蚕丝产量分布International:ChinaIndiaUzbekistanBrazil世界分布：中国印度乌兹别克斯坦巴西77%15%CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision71)、Homesilk:Mulberrysilk家蚕丝：桑蚕丝；2)、Widesilk:Tussahsilk,Castor-oilplantsilk,cassavasilk野蚕丝：柞蚕丝、蓖麻蚕丝、木薯蚕丝等。3Varieties品种：CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision8Theshimmeringappearanceforwhichsilkisprizedcomesfromthefibers'triangularprism-likestructure,whichallowssilkclothtorefractincominglightatdifferentangles.桑蚕丝纵向平直光滑，截面呈不规则的三角形，使丝织物折射外观色泽。Tussahsilkiscoarser,flatter,yellowerfilamentthantheMulberrysilk.柞蚕丝纵向表面粗燥，扁平，色泽比桑蚕丝黄。4Characteristics特点：CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision91）Growth:egg→Larva→Pupa→moth蚕的发育：经过卵、幼虫、蛹和成虫（蛾）四个阶段5SilkwormGrowth&Cocoon蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision102）茧的形成Cocoon茧衣（外层）：蚕吐丝时，最初吐出的凌乱的丝缕，成为茧的蓬松外廓。（丝缕细，强度差，丝胶含量多，绢纺原料）茧层（中层）：茧衣里面，丝缕绕成丝圈，结构紧密，排列规则，是丝的主体。（丝较粗，强力好）蛹（内层）：吐丝将近终了时叠合成的疏松层。（丝最细，发脆，丝胶含量少，绢纺原料）Outside:Lowtenacity,moresericinMiddle:Goodtenacity,GoodsilkInside:Crispy,Lowsericin,CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision111)Insilkmanufacture,thefirstoperationisreeling.Thecocoons,havingbeensortedforcolorandtexture,aresteamedorplacedinwarmwatertosoftenthenaturalgum.eachcocoonmaygivefrom610–915moffilament,Thisiscalledrawsilk.第一步是缫丝。蚕茧按色泽、质地分类挑选，利用热水使茧丝上的丝胶适当膨润和部分溶解，从而使茧丝分离下来形成生丝。每个茧可生成610-915m长丝。6Silkmanufacturing蚕茧的工艺加工CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision126Silkmanufacturing蚕茧的工艺加工2)Thenextstep,calledthrowing,ispreparingtherawsilkfortheloombytwistinganddoublingittotherequiredstrengthandthickness.第二步是捻丝。生丝经合并以达到一定要求的强度和纤度，成为丝纺原料。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision136Silkmanufacturing蚕茧的工艺加工3)Finishingprocessesarevaryingandimportant.Thesilkisboiledoffinsoapsudstoremovegumandprepareitfordyeing.Scouringorboilingcauseslossofweight,Dyeingmaybedoneintheyarnorinthepiece.后加工很重要。生丝在皂液中煮沸脱去丝胶形成熟丝以备染色。该工序会使丝纤维丢失重量。也可对纱线或织物染色。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision147Silkwearproperty蚕丝的服用性能SILKgarmentsareprizedfortheirluster,wearabilityandcomfort.Silkabsorbsmoisture,whichmakesitcoolinthesummerandwarminthewinter.Becauseofitshighabsorbency,itiseasilydyedinmanydeepcolors.丝绸服装吸湿、透气、有光泽，服用性能好，冬暖夏凉。因其对染料的高吸收性，很容易染成各种深色。Mostsilkfabricscanbehandwashed.Silkdriesquickly.Silkisalsoweakenedbysunlight.Silkmayyellowandfadewiththeuseofahighironsetting.Pressclothsandasteamironarerecommended.Silkanbedamagedbyhighalkalidetergentsandchlorinebleach.大多数丝绸服装必须手洗，洗后易干，避免日晒。因为丝绸在高温下会变黄褪色，应垫布熨烫或蒸汽熨烫。丝绸织物在强碱和含氯漂白剂中易受到损伤。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision15Wool羊毛CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision161Introduction介绍2Woolamount羊毛产量3Structure形态结构4WoolClassify羊毛分类5QualityandGrade品质和等级6Processingwool羊毛加工7Characteristicsofwool羊毛的特性CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision17MohairhairCamelhairLamahairYakhairCashmerehair1Introduction介绍：CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision181Introduction介绍：Wool,appliedtothesoft,curlyfibersobtainedchieflyfromthefleeceofsheep,andusedextensivelyintextilemanufacturing.羊毛是一种柔软、卷曲的纤维，主要取自于绵羊，广泛应用于纺织工业。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision192Woolamount羊毛产量AustraliaChinaNewZealandChinaisNo.2Top3TotalAmountinworldFleece94.5Semi-fleece51.7Coarse85TenKtonCHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision203Structure:形态结构：1Squamastructure2Cortexstructure3Medullastructure羊毛由鳞片层、皮质层、髓质层组成。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision214WoolClassify羊毛分类(1)细毛fleece长毛Long半细毛semi-fleece粗毛coarse改良毛Improvedwool土种毛Chinawool羊毛粗细羊种品系澳大利亚毛Australiawool新西兰毛NewZealandwool外毛CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision225QualityandGrade品质和等级Thevalueofwoolonthemarketdependsprimarilyonfinenessandlengthoffiber.Strength,elasticity,amountofcrimp,uniformity,dirt,vegetablematter.arealsoconsidered.羊毛品质主要取决于毛纤维的细度，长度，同时包括强力，弹性，卷曲度和均匀度，杂质等。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision235QualityandGrade品质和等级1)RangerforAverageFiberDiameter(micrometers).支数毛，按羊毛平均细度评定70支（18.1～20.0μm）、66支（20.1～21.5μm）、64支（21.6～23.0μm）60支（23.1～25.0μm）2)Rangerforcoarsewoolcontent.级数毛，按羊毛的粗腔毛含量评定。一级、二级、三级、四级、五级。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision246Processingwool（1）羊毛加工Thefirststepinprocessingwooltakesplaceonthefarmorranchwithshearing,usuallyinthespringtimejustbeforelambing.thenthebuyerstojudgethegrade.第一步是在牧场剪毛，通常选在春季母羊产羔前，然后定等。Nextstepiswashingthewooltoremovegrease（unrefinedlanolin）,vegetablematterandotherimpurities.第二步洗毛，以去除油脂,植物质和其它杂质。CHINAMERCHANDISETextileDivision256Processingwool(2)羊毛加工Cleanwoolsfrombatchesorlotsareblended-mixedmechanicallyatthisstage.之后，洗净毛可按批混合后用于后加工。Eachwoolfiberabsorbsdyessodee