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ChineseCostumesTheChinesecostume,whichhasover5,000years’history,isjustlikealongriver.Andtodaywe’llpresenttheminthreeparts,HanDynasty,TangDynastyandQingDynasty.Part1HanFuPart2CostumeinTangDynastyPart3CheongsamHanFuHanfuisalsoknownasHanzhuangorHuafu,isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,thenmanycametotheCourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan.(后数来朝贺,乐汉衣服制度)StandardstylehistorySpecificstyleGallerybodyHistoryHanfuhasahistoryofmorethanthreemillennia,andissaidtohavebeenwornbythelegendaryYellowEmperor.Fromthebeginningofitshistory,Hanfu(especiallyinelitecircles)wasinseparablefromsilk,supposedlydiscoveredbytheYellowEmperor’sconsort,Leizu.TheShangDynastydevelopedtherudimentsofHanfu;itconsistedofayi,andchang,wornwithabixi,.Vividprimarycolorsandgreenwereused,duetothedegreeoftechnologyatthetime.theWesternZhouDynasty,theHanfubecamelooser,withtheintroductionofwidesleevesandjadedecorationshungfromthesashwhichservedtokeeptheyiclosed.Theyiwasessentiallywrappedover,inastyleknownasjiaolingyouren,orwrappingtherightsideoverbeforetheleftIntheEasternZhouDynasty,the“deeprobe”(shenyi深衣)appearedacombinationoftunic(束腰外衣)andskirt.Theupperandlowerhalveswerecutseparatelybutsewnasasingleunit.Anadditionalchangewastheshapingoftheleftsideofthecostumeintoacorner,fastenedonthechest.womenmenSinceSongandYuan,officialrecordusedHanfutoindicategarmentsHanswearDuringLiaodynasty,theemperorofLiaoandHanofficialswearHanfu,andEmpressandKhitan(契丹)officialsweartheirnationalclothing.DuringYuandynasty,wheneditingHistoryofLiao,theofficialsespeciallymadeanentryforHanfuThetermHanfutodescribetheclothingsystemofHans,wasnotoftenusedwithinHans,butwasmoreoftenusedinotherethnicgroupsandnations,todistinguishtheHansclothingsystemandtheirownclothingsystemStandardstyleHatandheaddressInformaldressSemi-formalFormaldressCourtdressHatandheadwear--garmentThestyleofHanChineseclothingcanbesummarizedascontaininggarmentelementsthatarearrangedindistinctiveandsometimesspecificways.ThismaybedifferentfromthetraditionalgarmentofotherethnicgroupsinChina,mostnotablytheManchu-influencedChineseclothes,theqipao,whichispopularlyassumedtobethesolelyrecognizablestyleoftraditionalChinesegarb.AcomparisonofthetwostylescanbeseenasthefollowingprovidesYi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexesPao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymeninHanfuRu(襦):Opencross-collarshirtShan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyiQun(裙)orchang(裳):SkirtforwomenandmenKu(褲):TrousersorpantsOntopofthegarments,hats(formen)orhairpieces(forwomen)maybeworn.Onecanoftentelltheprofessionorsocialrankofsomeonebywhattheywearontheirheads.Thetypicaltypesofmaleheadweararecalledjin(巾)forsoftcaps,mao(帽)forastiffhatsandguan(冠)forformalheaddress.Officialsandacademicshaveaseparatesetofhatsforthem,typicallytheputou(幞頭),thewushamao(烏紗帽),thesi-fangpingdingjin(四方平定巾;orsimply,fangjin:方巾)andtheZhuangzijin(莊子巾).Atypicalhairpieceforwomenisaji(笄)buttherearemoreelaboratehairpieces.InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders,withterminologieschangorqun),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes(shenyi).(中衣)orzhongdan(中單):innergarments,mostlywhitecottonorsilk(衫裙):ashortcoatwithalongskirtRuqun(襦裙):atopgarmentwithaseparatelowergarmentorskirt(褲褶):ashortcoatwithtrousersZhiduo/zhishen(直裰/直身):aMingDynastystylerobe,similartoazhijushenyibutwithventsatthesideand'stitchedsleeves'(i.e.thesleevecuffisclosedsaveasmallopeningforthehandtogothrough)Daopao/Fusha(道袍/彿裟):Taoist/Buddhistpriests'fulldressceremonialrobesAtypicalsetofHanfucanconsistoftwoorthreelayersThefirstlayerofclothingismostlythezhongyi(中衣)whichistypicallytheinnergarmentmuchlikeaWesternT-shirtandpants.Thenextlayeristhemainlayerofclothingwhichismostlyclosedatthefront.Therecanbeanoptionalthirdlayerwhichisoftenanovercoatcalledazhaoshanwhichisopenatthefront.Semi-formaldressApieceofHanfucanbemadesemi-formalbytheadditionofthefollowingappropriateitems:chang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbeltzhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoatguan(冠)oranyformalhatsFormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe;equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfullbodygarment(曲裾):diagonalbodywrapping(直裾):straightlapelsYuanlingshan(圓領衫),lanshan(襴衫)orpanlingpao(盤領袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialoracademicaldressCourtdressCourtdressisthedresswornatveryformaloccasionsandceremoniesthatareinthepresenceofamonarch(suchasanenthronementceremony).Theentireensembleofclothingcanconsistofmanycomplexlayersandlookveryelaborate.Courtdressissimilartothexuanduanincomponentsbuthaveadditionaladornmentsandelaborateheadwear.Theyareoftenbrightlycoloredwithvermillionandblue.Therearevariousversionsofcourtdressthatarewornforcertainoccasions.SpecificStyleHistorically,HanClothinghasinfluencedmanyofitsneighbouringculturalcostumes,suchasJapanesekimono,yukata,KoreanHanbokandtheVietnameseáotứthân.ElementsofHanfuhavealsobeeni
本文标题:中国传统服饰-英文PPT
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