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ContentsTwofundamentalstylesofChinesetraditionalcostumeEvolutionandtraitsofChinesetraditionalcostumeTraitsofChineseancientwomen’smake-upChineseancientshoes(一)TheYi(shirt)andShang(skirt)system(上衣下裳制)Thisistheearlieststyleofourcostumesystem,itstemmedfromtheeraofHuangdi,whichhasagreatimpactonourmodernlife.(二)Sewn-upsystem(衣裳连属制)Alsocalledshenyi,atypeofHanChineseclothingcommonlywornfromthepre-ShangperiodstotheHanDynasty.Theyi(衣,shirt)andshang(裳,skirt)oftheshenyiissewntogether.Theformofshenyihasagreatinfluencetothelatecostume,eventoourtoday’sdress,suchasone-piecedressXia,ShangandZhouPeriodsIntheseperiods,thewearingofpeopleobeyedtheYiandShangsystem.ShenyisystemstartedfromZhouPeriod.Thesetwosystemshadadeepinfluenceonlaterages.ThespringandautumnperiodTheoccurrenceofHufuandtheprevalenceofShenyiarethemostimportantchangeincostume.WarsinthespringandautumnperiodpromotedtheevolutionofHancostume’sbroadshirt,longskirtandtunic.Inordertoenhancethearmy’sstrength,WuLingKingofZhaoStateintroducedHufuintoCentralPlain,thiswasthefirstcostumeevolutioninhistory.HufuisthegarmentswornbyTartarsorthosewholivedintheWesternRegions,itconsistedofnarrowsleevedshirt,longtrousersandboot.HanDynastyChina'scompletecodeofcostumeandtrappingswasestablishedintheHanDynasty.ThecostumecodeoftheWesternHanDynastyfollowedtheoneestablishedintheQinDynasty.IntheEasternHanDynasty,peopleinblackhadtowearpurplesilkadornmentstomatchtheirclothes.TheWesternHanDynastyimplementedtheShenyi(longcoat)system,whichfeaturedacicada-shapedhat,redclothesand“田-shapedcollar.Inaddition,peopleofthattimeworejadearticles(玉器)andredshoes.TangDynastyThedressstyleinTangDynastyisopen.Women'sdressandpersonaladornmentsoftheTangDynastywereoutstandinginChina'shistory.Theclothingmaterialswereexquisite,thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsweresplendid.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandtheSuiDynasty,theywereinfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.SongDynastyThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtoconservative,impressingpeoplewiththefeelingofsimple,pureandelegant.Narrow,long,thinarethemaincharacteristicsofwomen’sclothing.MingDynastyThecostumeinMingDynastybasicallyfollowedthestyleofTangandSongDynasties,butthereweresomedifferencesinsizesofshirtandskirt.Narrowsleevedshirt,longskirtandmanteauprevailedintheearlyyearsofMingDynasty.BroadlongsleevedshirtandshortskirtprevailedinthemiddleyearsofMingDynasty.WhileinthelateofMingDynasty,thenarrowlongsleevedshirtwaspopularwithwomen.Thestylesofthecostumeweretheimitationofthedressofcocotte,whichtraitswereplainandelegant.QingDynastyCheongsam,themostfamousChinesecostumeallovertheworld,isthetypicaldressinQingDynasty.Inthattime,Manchuwomenworncheongsam,waistcoatandflowerpotshoes,whileHanwomenstillworninstyleofMingDynasty.Butthen,thecostumeofManchuandHanaffectedeachotherandhadgreatchanges.•Clog(屐,ji),akindofshoewithwoodsole,iscreatedintheSpringandAutumnPeriodbyJinWenGong;•Boot(鞾,同“靴”),similartoourtoday’sboot,introducedinCentralPlainsbyWuLingKingofZhaoState(赵武灵王)inthelateWarringStatesPeriod;Thereareseveralstylesof“shoes”inancienttimes.•Xi(舄),anancientshoewithdoublesoles,usuallyworninformaloccasions;•Strawsandals(屦,ju),popularbeforeHanDynasty,madeofstraw;•Lv(履),popularafterHanDynasty,madeofsilk;•Shoe,differentfromtheshoeweweartoday,popularafterSongDynasty,madeofflax.(一)Methodsandinstrumentsofancientmake-upFloral-patternedtrinket(花钿Huadian)Somekindsoftrinketpastedinthemiddleofeyebrowandonface.ItisalsocalledPlumblossommake-uporShouyangmake-up.ItisverypopularinTangandSongDynasty.ThematerialofHuadianisabundant,suchasgoldleaf,paper,fishscale,evenwingofdragonfly.Besidethewinter-sweet,theshapeofHuadianincludesbird,fish,darkandsoon.LipstickItwasverypopularwithwomeninancienttimes,forpaintingonlipscouldenhancetheeffectoffleshbrilliance,whichimpressedpeoplewiththefeelingofhealth,youngandenergetic.Thestyleoflipstickwasvariety,buttherewasatraitincommon,thattheyalljudgedthelittlemouthasthestandardofbeauty,soancientwomenpaintedlittleontheirlips.LipstylesineachdynastyFacepowderPowderingonfacehasalreadyusedbyChineseancientwomenanditisamostusualwayofmake-up.Accordingtothehistoricrecord,thecostoffacepowdersthatTangMingHuangpurchaseforYangGuiFeihadbeenbillionstael.Ancientpeoplenotonlyconnectedfacepowderwithbeauty,butalsowithmoralcultivationEHuangAlsocalledYaHuang,namedaftertheyellowpigmentthatancientwomenpaintedinthemiddleofforehead.ItoriginatedintheNorthernandSouthernDynasties,andwaspopularinTangDynasty,buthadfadedawayfromourmodernlife.PenciltheeyebrowThisisthemostpopularandcommonwayofmake-up,whichstemmedfromWarringStatesPeriod.PencilingtheeyebrowiswidelyusedanddevelopedinHanDynasty.ItwasafashiontopenciltheeyebrowshortandbroadinTangDynasty,whichlookedlikeleavesofcherrybayorwingofmoth.(二)Traitsofmake-upthroughtheagesQinDynastyQindynasty’swomenlikedanorangemakeup.Theyhighlightedthemiddleofeyebrow,paintedeyeslongandfuscous.Lipswerecherry-shapedandtheircolorsfocusonruby.TangDynastyTangdynasty’sfolkwaywasveryopen.Sotherewasavarietyofwomen
本文标题:最新2019-中国传统服饰文化英文-PPT课件
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