制鞋业流程之裁断

鞋子制作流程图备面料备底料裁断针车成型成型底组合底裁断CUTTING概述:裁断部门主要任务是用相应斩刀裁出鞋子的各部件,并印刷针车/成型操作所需的对位线条,及对鞋面装饰进行电乡/高波/烫金/雷射处理.Summary:It’staskofcuttingdepartmenttocutouttheallcomponentsofupperwithcorrespondingcuttingdieandprintallmarkinglineforstitching&assemblyandprocessupperdecorationviaembroidery/HI-FIembossing/stamp/lasermethod.1.鞋类鞋面用皮料或人造皮或织品材料裁断而成.皮料是一种天然的材料且有两种重要的物性:有弹力和可塑性.Footwearupperarecutfromleatherorsyntheticortextilematerial.Leatherisanaturalmaterialandhastwoimportantproperties:elasticityandplasticity.裁断时注意皮料的自然延伸特性,以免后续在制作中出现问题;排刀尽可能的从皮料上多斩裁片,最经济地利用皮料,因为经济是最重要的.Whencutting,operatorshavetonotethenaturalstretchcharacteristicsoftheleathertopreventproblemslaterinmanufacture;Laycuttingdiearedevelopedtocutasmanysectionsaspossiblefromtheleathertomakethemosteconomicuseoftheleatherduetotheeconomyisimportant.不同的部件选择不同的皮料部位;一般头庄/鞋面/后助,在穿着时阻止脚向前或向后滑动且其在走路或跑步过程中经常受到磨擦,选择皮料最好最稳定的部位---动物的背部;其他部件可选择动物皮的颈部/腹部.Cutdifferentsectionsformdifferentareasofaleather;Commonlytoecap/vamp/heelcapneedbecutfromthebestandfirmestpartofaleather---thebackpartoftheanimal,duetothesesectionsmainlysupportfoottopreventfromslippingforwardorbackwardinwearandtheyoftensuffermuchabrasionduringwalkingorrunning.Foranothersections,needbecutfromtheneckorbellypartsofanimal.2.裁断前先选择正确材料,并准备正确合理的排刀示意图:必须确保裁向正确,使用最小的排刀安全距离(一般在1-2mm之间),每刀允许的最多裁断层数,依材料种类不同其所裁层数分别如下:Beforecutting,preparethecorrectmaterialandthecorrect&logicalillustrationoflaycuttingdieplans:thatmakesurethestretchdirectioncorrect,applytheminsafedistancebetweentheclosecutsection(commonlyit’s1-2mm),cutthemostlayerspercutasallowable,plsseethebelowchartforcuttingtheallowablelayersaccordingtothedifferentkindsofmaterials:类别Kinds品名规格MaterialNamespec层数Layers真皮Leather所有真皮.Allrealleather1人造Synthetic有冲孔Withperforations2无冲孔Withoutperforations4网布Mesh纲布Mesh+3-5mm泡棉Foam4网布Mesh+4mmEVA/三明治网布SandwichMesh2补强类Reinforcement210D/420D尼龙Nylon,18P细布slender,106600强布santaparts/0.6mm橡胶片Rubberpiece/0.6-1.0不织布non-woven/0.8丽新布Cosmo/1.5-2.0EVA80.3-06热熔胶Hotmelt/1.5mm不织布Nonwoven5泡棉类Foam2-4mm泡棉Foam10泡棉Foam+36GT/C66-12mm泡棉Foam420mm泡棉Foam2中底类Insole加州中底Canvas/港宝HotMelt5化学布板Chemiccloth/1.5mm中底板Board2红/黑板Red/BlackBoard2.0mm11.依领料单颔取物料,物料颜色/规格/数量一定要正确.Collectthematerialfromwarehouseaspertherequiredmateriallist.Makesurethecolor/spec/quantitycorrect.2.不允许超领.如有用量不够,需查明原因,开补料单.经协理签章后方或补领.Don’tallowtotakemorethanrequiredquantity.Ifthematerialisn’tenough,needcheckwhatitwascaused.Ifnecessary,applythereinforcedquantityandneedseniormanageragree&sign,thenmaytakethereinforcedmaterial.3.仓库将需斩多层的料迭合好后,再发给裁断部门.Needoverlapthematerialaspertheinstructionshownontheproceduremanual.Thendistributetothecuttingdepartment.裁断领料COLLECTMATERIALFORCUTTING裁断网布CUTMESH1,根据《量产通知书》选择所用型体的斩刀,拉力方向及斩的层数.Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers.2,斩刀与裁断机上座顶部的安全距离约为10mm.Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.3.斩刀与斩刀之间的间距为1.5mm.Distancebetweeneverycuttingdieis1.5mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料现象。刀模不能缺角和变形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors铁捶Hammer斩刀cuttingdie白蜡Whitewax斩断机Cuttingmachine斩板Cuttingboard1,根据《量产通知书》选择所用型体的斩刀,拉力方向及斩的层数.Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers.2,斩刀与裁断机上座顶部的安全距离约为10mm.Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.3.斩刀与斩刀之间的间距为1-2mm.Distancebetweenclosetwocutpositionis1-2mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料现象。刀模不能缺角和变形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.裁断皮料CUTLEATHERAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors铁捶Hammer斩刀cuttingdie白蜡Whitewax斩板Cuttingboard斩断机Cuttingmachine检查皮料,将不良处画出Checktheleather&lineoutthebreakageportion注意排放斩刀向向Notethedirectionofcuttingdie1,根据《量产通知书》选择所用型体的斩刀,拉力方向及斩的层数.Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers.2,斩刀与裁断机上座顶部的安全距离约为10mm.Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.3.斩刀与斩刀之间的间距为1mm.Distancebetweenclosetwocutpositionis1-2mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料现象。刀模不能缺角和变形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.裁断人造皮CUTSYNTHETICAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors铁捶Hammer斩刀cuttingdie白蜡Whitewax斩板Cuttingboard斩断机Cuttingmachine削皮Skiving1,按量产通知书所要求的标准,备好所需流程图.Prepareprocedureflowchartaspertheproductioninformationindication.2,按操作流程图调好所需物料的宽度及厚度.Setthemachinetoskivetherequiredwidth&thicknessofmaterialshownonP/I.3.所削皮的物料不可有厚薄不均及缺角,不到位的现象Guaranteetoskivethematerialevenly&completely,andnottomissany.AppliedTooling:削皮机Skivingmachine片皮Slipping1,备好所需部件的操作流程图.Preparetheprocedureflowchartoftherequiredcomponent.2,按操作流程图调试好所片薄部件的厚度.SetthemachinefollowingthecomponentthicknessshownonPFC.3,把所片薄的物料放于片薄版内,贴好再进行操作.Putthecomponentintotheframe&attachonit,thenslip.4﹐所片薄的材料不能有厚薄不均的现象.Guaranteetoslipevenly.AppliedTooling:片皮机Slippingmachine片薄外框板Frameboardforslipping磨边BUFFEDGE1按量产通知书所要求的标准,备好所需流程图.Preparetheprocedureflowchartastheproductioninformationindication2,按操作流程图调好所需物料的宽度及厚度.Setthemachinetobufftherequiredwidth&thicknessshownonP/I.3所打粗的物料不可有厚薄不均及缺角,不到位的现象