维多利亚服装

Letustakeyouonatourofwomen’sclothinginVictoriafashioninthe19thcentury.Specialbonnets（软帽）•Bonnets,replacingthegreathats,changedthewholecharacterofdaydresses.In1835,Thelookofdemureprimgentilitywasemphasizedbythelossofthegreathatsforbonnets.•In1836Gigotsleevescollapsedabruptly.•Costumebegantodevelopthesentimental'earlyVictorianlook'weassociatewithQueenVictoria'searlyrule.TheearlysentimentalVictorianlookoftenusedtodepictladiesoftheera,c1838•Allthebonedbodice（胸衣）seamlinesandtrimsweredirectionaltoemphasizethesmallwaists•By1845thebonedbodice（胸衣）wasevenmoreelongatedintoaVshape.•ThismeantthatanearlyVictorianwoman'sarmmovementswererestricted.Flounces（荷叶边）wereaddedintheearly1840stomaketheskirtsappearwider.BeautifulflouncesCartridgepleats(筒打褶）wereusedatfirsttodrawtheskirtfabricin1841Cartridgepleats•Laterby1850thewordcrinolinebegantomeanthewholeofthebeehiveshapedskirt（蜂巢状裙子）.•Itwasthenonlyanothersteptocallthelaterartificialorcagehoopedsupportframepetticoatsafter1856,crinolines.FactorsAffectingtheFashionSilhouetteafter1860•sewingmachine（缝纫机）hadbeeninvented•couturedesign（服装设计）playedamoreimportantroleinclothesworld•syntheticdyes(合成染料）madeitpossibletohaveintensecolors（强烈色彩）•Crinoline（裙撑）domedskirtsilhouettetowardsthegarmentback.Clothingdesigner——CharlesWorth•Hewasagreatdesigner,andhedesignedanoverskirt,whichcaughtoninEnglandafter1868.ThenewPrincessgown•ThePrincessgownwascutinonepieceandconsistedofanumberofjoinedpanelsfittedandgoredfromshouldertohem•LaterPrincessstyleswereslimmerandmuchmoreformfitting.Sleevesindaydresseswereoftenofabananashape.Anothertopskirt__apron•RounderwaistlineswerefashionableandevenbegantoriseveryslightlyBallgownswithatrain•From1870,ballgownsalwayshadatrain.•Soonby1873thetrainwasseenindaydress.softpolonaisebustlestyles•By1875thesestylesbecamesoextreme•thesoftfullnessbegantodropdownthebackofthegarment•Trainswereveryheavilyornamented•Thisfascinatingeradidn’tendwiththedeathofQueenVictoria.•Manyhistoriansbelievethattheso-called“Victorian”endisaftertheendoftheFirstWorldWar.ThePrincessLineSheath•ThesoftpolonaisestylebustlestyleswerereplacedbyPrincesssheathgarmentsDresswithcuirassebodice•Thecuirassebodicewascorsetlikeanddippedevendeeperbothfrontandbackextendingwelldownthehipscreatingthelookofabodyencasedinarmour.TheNewHardBustleof1883•.Ithadminimaldraperycomparedtotheformerandaslimmermorefittedseverelytailoredprincessbodice,withamuchflatterfront.•Thesharpertailoredjacketfashiongavethemadifferentposturewithamoreconfidentairreflectingtheidealsofearlyfemaleemancipation.•Thegownsofthe1880swerealmostalwaysmadeintwocoloursofmaterialThelegofmuttonsleeves•Thelegofmuttonsleevescontinuedtodevelopandsproutedhighabovetheshoulders,By1895thesleevesswelledintoenormouspuffssimilartothoseof1833.Ashappenedin1830tobalancethehugeshoulderstheskirtwidenedandflared,whilstkeepingthewaisttightandhandspannarrow.Theleaderofthewomen’liberationmovement_ClaraZetkinIn1887,SmithAstorfromtheUKworetrousersanddeclared:”Pantsarenotonlycomfortable,healthy,butdignified.”•Victoria’scostumehadnotonlychangedthedevelopmentofcostumeartsandtheprogressofthesociety,butalsoimprovedthestatusofwomen.Inourview,Victoriancostumesarebeautifulandluxuriant.It’sthenoblesymbol.But,whenwomenatthattimeworethebreathlessgarmentandtheheavybustle,whocanunderstandtheirpain?Thatwasboundunderthebeautifulappearanceistheirsoul.•Whentheskirtrobereplacedbytrousers,women’sstatushadundergoneearth-shakingchanges.Notonlyweretheyfreedfromtheshacklesofsocialconventions,butalsoclothingartswaspushedtoanotherpeak.荷叶边lotusleaf立领collarmulti-layeredcakecutting（多层次蛋糕裁剪),VictoriancostumefeaturesVictorianstylearefrom1837to1901,duringthereignofQueen.IntheconservativeVictorianera,theneedforpureculture,womenmustputtheirtightlywrappedhighwaist（高腰)wrinkle(褶皱legofmuttonsleeves（羊腿袖）蝴蝶结bowsCorset（紧身褡）womenwithhighsocialstatuswouldwearcorsets,whichdragstothegroundwithalongskirt,andfastensthewaist.Wearingthistight-fittingsuitseemselegance.ClothesinVictorianPeriodbowlerhat（“波乐帽”)Tailcoat(燕尾服）Scottishkilt(基尔特）BritishStyle(英伦风）PartonetypicalclothesinGreatBritainbowlerhat（“波乐帽”）ThemostprominentofEnglandnationaldressistheEnglishgentleman'sbowlerhat.Thebowlerhat,alsoknownasacokehat,isahardfelthatwitharoundedcrownoriginallycreatedin1849。Traditionally,theBritishnobility,distinguishedcelebritieshavetowearthishat.Today,inthestreetsofmajorcities,suchhatshavebeenrare,butnotdisappeared.tailcoat(燕尾服)TailcoatsoriginatedintheUnitedKingdom,inthe18thcentury,evolvedfromthecavalryservice.Thehistoricalreasonthatcoatswerecutthiswaywastomakeiteasierforthewearertorideahorse.Butitisextremelybeautiful.Thismakestheotherbranchestofollowup.Thus,cavalryclothinghadbecomefashionamongciviliansandofficialsandpopularinBritainanditscolonies.Overtheyearstailcoatsofvaryingtypeshaveevolvedintoformsofformaldressforbothdayandeveningwear..