服装工艺操作doc12(1)

服装工艺操作一．检查原材料1．验色差checkingcolourdeviation检查原、辅料色泽级差归类。2．查疵点checkingdefect检查原、辅料疵点。3．查污渍checkingspot检查原、辅料污渍。4．分幅宽sortingoutfabrics原、辅料门幅按宽窄归类。5．坦衬布色泽checkinginterlining检查衬布色泽，按色泽归类。6．查纬斜checkingbiasfilling检查原料纬纱斜度。7．复米remeasuring复查每匹原、辅料的长度。8．理化试验physicalandchemicaltest测定原、辅材料的伸缩率、耐热度、色牢度等。二．裁剪1．烫原辅料ironingmaterials熨烫原辅料折皱印。2．自然回缩naturalshrinkage原辅料打开放松，自然通风收缩。3．排料layout排出用料定额。4．计算机裁剪computeraidedcutting应用计算机推档划样。5．铺料spreading按划样要求铺料。6．划样marking用样板或漏划板按不同规格在原料上划出衣片裁剪线条。7．复查划样checkinglayout复核划样结果。8．裁剪cutting按划样裁成衣片。9．钻眼drilling用电钻在裁片上做出缝制标记。10．打刀口notching按划样标记打上刀口。11．分片identifyingandbundling裁片分开整理。12．打粉印chalking用粉在裁片上做出缝制标记。13．编号numbering裁好的衣片按顺序编上号码。14．查裁片刀口checkingnotches检查裁片刀口质量。15．配零件cuttingparts配零部件料。16．钉标签attachinglabel将有顺序的标签钉在衣片上。17．验片checkinglabel检查裁片质量。18．织补darning修补裁片织疵。19．换片changingdefectivepieces调换不符合质量的裁片。20．冲领角薄膜punchingcollarstay用模具冲领角薄膜衬。21．冲领上下衬punchingcollarinterlining用模具冲压领子的上层和下层衬布。三．缝纫A．呢服装1．修边trimmingpieces修剪毛坯裁片。2．打线丁makingtailor’stack用白棉纱线在裁片上做出缝制标记.3．剪省缝slashingdart毛呢服装省缝剪开。4．环缝overcastingstitches毛呢服装剪开的省缝用环形针法绕缝。5．缉省缝sewingdarts省缝折合机缉缝合。6．烫省缝pressingdartopen省缝坐倒熨烫或分开熨烫。7．推门blockingfrontpiece将平面前衣片推烫成立体衣片。8．缉衬省stitchingdartofinterlining机缉衬布省道。9．缉衬stitchinginterlining机缉前身衬布。10．烫衬pressinginterlining熨烫缉好的胸衬。11．敷胸衬attachinginterlining前衣片敷上胸衬。12．压衬pressinginterfacing用粘合机将衣片和粘合衬进行热压粘合。13．纳驳头pad-stitchinglapel手工或机扎驳头。（同义词：驳头）14．敷止口牵条tapingfrontedge牵条布敷上驳口部位。15．敷驳口牵条tapinglapelrollline牵条布敷上驳口部位。16．拼袋盖里matchingflapfacing袋盖里拼接。17．做袋盖makingflap袋盖面和里机缉缝合。18．翻袋盖makingoverflap袋盖正面翻出。19．做插笔口makinganopeningforpenontheflap在小袋盖上口做插笔开口。20．滚袋口bindingpocketmouth毛边袋口用滚条包光。21．缉袋嵌线stitchingboundpocket袋嵌线料缉在开袋上。22．开袋口cuttingpocketmouth将缉好袋嵌线的袋口剪开。23．封袋口stitchingendsofpocketmouth袋口两头机缉封口。24．缉转袋布stitchingpocketbag袋布双层缝合。25．拼接挂面stitchingfacing手工或机缝拼接挂面。26．拼接耳朵皮stitchingflange手工或机缝拼接耳朵皮。27．敷挂面attachingfacing挂面敷在前衣片止口部位，即敷过面。28．合止口joiningfrontedge门里襟止口机缉缝合。29．修剔止口trimmingfrontedge止口缝毛边剪窄，剔薄。30．扳止口whipstitchingfrontedge止口缝毛边剪窄，剔薄。31．扎止口bastingfrontedge翻出的止口扎一道临时固定线。32．叠挂面bastingfrontfacing将挂面和大身扎在一起。33．合背缝joiningcenterbackseam背缝机缉缝合。34．归拔后背blockingbackseam将平面后衣片按体型归烫成立体衣片。35．敷袖窿牵条tapingarmhole牵条布缝上后衣片的袖窿部位。36．敷背叉牵条tapingbackvent牵条布缝上背叉沿口部位。37．封背叉bartackingbackvent背叉封结。38．合摆缝joiningsideseam摆缝机缉缝合。39．分烫摆缝pressingopensideseam摆缝缉缝分开熨烫。40．扣烫底边foldingandpressinghem衣边折转熨烫。41．叠底边bastinghem底边扣烫后扎一道临时固定线。42．叠摆缝bastingsideseam将里子和面子的摆缝扎在一起。43．倒钩袖窿back-stitchingarmhole沿袖窿用倒钩针法缝扎。44．合肩缝joiningshoulderseam肩缝机缉缝合。45．分烫肩缝pressingopenshoulderseam肩缝缉缝分开熨烫。46．叠肩缝slip-stitchingshoulderseam肩缝缝头与衬扎牢。47．做垫肩makingshoulderpad用布和棉花等做成垫肩。48．装垫肩settingshoulderpad垫肩装在袖窿肩头部位。49．倒钩领窝back-stitchingneckline沿领窝用倒钩针法缝扎。50．拼领衬joiningcollarinterlining领衬拼缝机缉缝合或粘合搭拼。51．拼领里applyinginterliningtocollar领里拼缝机缉缝合。52．缉领里top-stitchingundercollar机缉领里。53．归拔领里blockingundercollar领里归拔熨烫。54．归拔领面blockingtopcollar领面归拔熨烫。55．敷领面attachingundercollartotopcollar领面敷上领里。56．合领子joiningundercollarandtopcollar领面、里机缉缝合。57．翻领子turningovercollar领子正面翻出。58．做领舌makingcollarbandends做中山服底领探出的里襟。59．包底领stitchingcollarband中山服底领包转机缉。60．绱领子sewingcollaronanddown领子装上领窝。61．分烫绱领缝pressingopencollarseam绱领缉缝分开熨烫。62．分烫领串口slip-stitchinggorgeseam领串口缉缝分开熨烫。63．叠领串口slip-stitchinggorgeseam领串口缝与绱领缝扎牢。64．包领面turningovertopcollarseamallowancesandcatch-stitchingit西装、大衣领面外口包转，用三角针与领面绷牢。65．上下领缝合attachingbandtocollar中山服或衬衫领上下结合。66．压烫领脚pressingcollar装领完毕后，将前后领圈放平用熨斗压烫绱领缝子部位。67．归拔偏袖blockingsleeve偏袖部位，归拔熨烫。68．合袖缝joiningsleeveseam袖缝机缉缝合。69．分烫袖缝pressingopensleeveseam袖缝缉缝分开熨烫。70．挢袖叉slip-stitchingsleeveslit袖叉边与袖口贴边挢牢。71．叠袖里缝matchingandstitchingsleeveliningseamallowance袖子面、里缉缝对齐扎牢。72．翻袖子turningoversleeve袖子正面翻出，即缝袖山头吃势。73．收袖山easingsleevecap收缩袖山松度或缝吃头。74．绱袖settinginsleeve袖子装在袖窿上。75．挢袖窿slip-stitchingsleeveliningtogarmentlining挢袖窿里子。76．压烫袖窿pressingarmhole装袖完毕，将袖窿按圆形放平（分段）用熨斗压烫绱袖缝子部分。77．滚袖窿bindingarmhole用滚条将袖窿毛边包光。78．挢领钩attachinghooktocollarband底领领钩开口处用手工挢牢。79．挢领下口slip-stitchingcollartogarment领里下口与大身挢牢。80．叠暗门襟slip-stitchingfacing暗门襟眼距间用暗针缝牢。81．挢底边blindstitchinghem底边与大身挢牢。B.女毛呢服装1．合刀背缝stitchingprincessline刀背缝机缉缝合。2．烫刀背缝pressingprincessline刀背缝缉缝坐倒或分开熨烫。3．定眼位markingbuttonposition划准扣眼位置。4．滚扣眼boundingbuttonhole用滚眼料把扣眼毛边包光。5．开扣眼cuttingbuttonhole扣眼剪开。6．滚挂面biasbindingfacing挂面里口毛边用滚条包光。7．合领面joiningtopcollar领面拼缝机缉缝合（合领里与此同）8．做袋爿makingweltpocket袋爿缝扣转挢上里子。9．做袋makingpocket做各种袋。10．绱袋attachingpockettogarment口袋装在袋位上。11．翻小袢turningovertab小袢正面翻出。12．绱袖袢attachingsleevetab袖袢装在袖口上规定的部位。13．合腰带stitchingwaistbandandlining腰带机缉缝合。14．翻腰带turningoverwaistband腰带正面翻出。15．坐烫里子缝pressingliningseamrollingtounderside里子缉缝坐倒熨烫。16．合大身面里stitchinggarmentandliningtogether大身面里机缉缝合。17．翻里子turningoverlining面、里正面翻出。18．敷里子attachingliningtogarment里子敷上大身。19．挢扣眼slip-stitchingbuttonhole扣眼毛边折光挢牢。C.衬衫1．角薄膜定位positioningcollarstay领角薄膜在领衬上定位。2．热缩领面pressingtopcollarforpreshrinking领面防缩熨烫。3．粘翻领fusinginterlining领衬与领面三边沿口上浆粘合。4．压领角pressingcollerpoint上领翻出后领角热定型。5．夹翻领attachingcollertoband翻领夹进底领机缉合。6．扣烫过肩foldingandpressingbackyoke过肩毛边折转扣烫。7．绱过肩settingbackyoke过肩缉在衣片上。8．绱明门襟attachingfacing门襟装在前衣片止口上。9．镶边makingbiasbindingasadecorativetrim用镶边料装在衣片边上。10．镶嵌线pipingandbinding用嵌线料镶在衣片上。11．缉明线topstitchi