中华传统服饰双语讲座(第二部分)

Dress-uptipsofthewomenintheTangDynasty唐朝妆束初唐高宗龙朔初唐武周初盛唐玄宗开元盛唐玄宗天宝晚唐大和咸通①②③④⑤①②③④⑤襦半臂裙大袖衫披帛Women‘sdressandpersonaladornmentsoftheTangDynastywereoutstandinginChina’shistory.Theclothingmaterialswereexquisite(优雅，精致),thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornments(饰品)weresplendid.ThedressesoftheTangDynastyweremainlymadeofsilk,sodresseswerefamousforsoftnessandlightness.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD)andtheSuiDynasty(581-618),theywereinfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.Especially,thenationalpoweroftheHighTangwasstrong.ThetradesandculturalexchangeswithKorea,Vietnam,Japan,Persiaandothercountriesgraduallybecamefrequent,andtheymutuallydispatchedemissariesandacceptedstudentsofothercountries.Inthisway,aspecialopenandromanticstyleofdressandpersonaladornmentswasformed.ThedressesoftheTangDynastyboldlyadoptedthefeaturesofforeigngarmentsintermsofformsandadornments;i.e.theymainlyreferredtothegarmentsofothercountries(suchastheCentral-Asiacountries,India,Iran,Persia,northerncountriesandtheWesternRegions)andusedthemtoimprovethecultureoftheTangDynasty.唐屏风绢画胡服美人图翻领袍和浑脱帽ThegarmentsintheTangDynastyalsogreatlyaffectedthegarmentsofneighboringcountries.Forinstance,JapanesekimonoadoptedtheelitesofthedressesoftheTangDynastyintermsofcolors,andtheHanbok(韩服)(traditionalKoreanclothing)alsoadoptedtheadvantagesofthedressesoftheTangDynasty.奈良，飞鸟时期的日本中晚唐广袖衫十二单CourtierrobeofJapan天皇家族传统常服，公家文化和武家文化有很大区别However,theclothingoftheCourtandtheWarlordswerequitedifferent.SomeTipsofAttractionoftheTangDynastywomenWomen‘sappearance,alongwiththeirgoodmorality,properspeech,anddiligenthousework,werecompulsorycriteria(强制标准)ofgoodwomen.Butanenduringbeautystandardisasfollows:arosyplumpovalface(红润的鹅蛋脸),new-moon-shapedeyebrows(新月眉),delicateandsoftlimbsandfingers,andfineporcelain(瓷)skin.Adancerwhoappearedin2008OlympicsOpeningCeremony杜甫丽人行三月三日天气新，长安水边多丽人。态浓意远淑且真，肌理细腻骨肉匀。绣罗衣裳照暮春，蹙金孔雀银麒麟。头上何所有？翠微榼叶垂鬓唇。背后何所见？珠压腰衱稳称身。就中云幕椒房亲，赐名大国虢与秦。唐代张萱《虢国夫人游春图》局部白居易时世妆时世妆，时世妆，出自城中传四方。时世流行无远近，腮不施朱面无粉。乌膏注唇唇似泥，双眉画作八字低。妍媸黑白失本态，妆成尽似含悲啼。圆鬟无鬓堆髻样，斜红不晕赭面状。昔闻被发伊川中，辛有见之知有戎。元和妆梳君记取，髻堆面赭非华风。《后汉书》中长安时谚：“城中好高髻，四方高一尺。城中好广眉，四方且半额。城中好大袖，四方全匹帛。”楚王好细腰，宫女多饿死。刘嘉玲和刘晓庆版的武则天(2009,1994)WhichEmpressWuwascorrectlydressedupinEarlyTang?陈家林导演电视剧《法门寺猜想》TangDynastyeyebrowspaintedinbluishblackwerecalleddaimei(黛眉),long,fineeyebrowswereemei(蛾眉),andguangmei(广眉)eyebrowsthatwereshortandthick.Facialmakeupwasanelaborate(一丝不苟的)processforTangDynastywomen.Itbeganwithafoundationoffacepowder(敷铅粉),followedbyrougeandadustingoflightyellowpowder(涂胭脂，鹅黄).Bluishblackeyebrowswerethenpainstakinglypaintedin,lipstick(唇脂)applied,anddimples(酒窝)eitheraddedoraccentuated(面靥).Lastwasanornamentaldesign(花钿)eitherpastedorpaintedontheforehead.Tangbeautiespastedontheirforeheadswereoftenofbirdfeathersorblackpaper,andpossiblyofshell,goldleaf(金箔),fishboneormica(云母).宋仁宗皇后像幂篱/帷帽唐骑马俑WomeninEartlyTanglikedtocovertheirfacewithweimaowhentheywereout.Itcouldprotecttheirfacefromsandanddust,yetmakethemfullofmysteriousattraction.ThisexoticfashionstartedevenbeforeHanDynasty,introducedby“Barbarians”fromwestern(middleAsian)countries(Wusun,DaYuezhi,Anxi,etc),andthenprevailedamongwomenofupperclass.电影《古今大战秦俑情》电视剧《贞观之治》Men’sClothingintheTangDynasty唐朝男子服饰之圆领袍Round-collarRobe唐朝男子服饰之幞头(handkerchiefonhead/headband)Headband(幞头，巾子)hadbeenverypopularduringTangDynasty.Itwasadoredfromemperorstovagabonds.Cap(冠)mustbematchedwithaheadband，andwasoftenreplacedbyit.TheinfluenceofsucharulelasteduntiltheMingDynasty(1368-1644).明朝皇帝所戴翼善冠