制鞋业标准流程之--裁断篇(图文并茂)

鞋子制作流程圖備面料備底料裁斷針車成型成型底組合底裁斷CUTTING概述:裁斷部門主要任務是用相應斬刀裁出鞋子的各部件,並印刷針車/成型操作所需的對位線條,及對鞋面裝飾進行電鄉/高波/燙金/雷射處理.Summary:It’staskofcuttingdepartmenttocutouttheallcomponentsofupperwithcorrespondingcuttingdieandprintallmarkinglineforstitching&assemblyandprocessupperdecorationviaembroidery/HI-FIembossing/stamp/lasermethod.1.鞋類鞋面用皮料或人造皮或織品材料裁斷而成.皮料是一種天然的材料且有兩種重要的物性:有彈力和可塑性.Footwearupperarecutfromleatherorsyntheticortextilematerial.Leatherisanaturalmaterialandhastwoimportantproperties:elasticityandplasticity.裁斷時注意皮料的自然延伸特性,以免後續在制作中出現問題;排刀盡可能的從皮料上多斬裁片,最經濟地利用皮料,因為經濟是最重要的.Whencutting,operatorshavetonotethenaturalstretchcharacteristicsoftheleathertopreventproblemslaterinmanufacture;Laycuttingdiearedevelopedtocutasmanysectionsaspossiblefromtheleathertomakethemosteconomicuseoftheleatherduetotheeconomyisimportant.不同的部件選擇不同的皮料部位;一般頭莊/鞋面/後助,在穿著時阻止腳向前或向後滑動且其在走路或跑步過程中經常受到磨擦,選擇皮料最好最穩定的部位---動物的背部;其他部件可選擇動物皮的頸部/腹部.Cutdifferentsectionsformdifferentareasofaleather;Commonlytoecap/vamp/heelcapneedbecutfromthebestandfirmestpartofaleather---thebackpartoftheanimal,duetothesesectionsmainlysupportfoottopreventfromslippingforwardorbackwardinwearandtheyoftensuffermuchabrasionduringwalkingorrunning.Foranothersections,needbecutfromtheneckorbellypartsofanimal.2.裁斷前先選擇正確材料,並准備正確合理的排刀示意圖:必須確保裁向正確,使用最小的排刀安全距離(一般在1-2mm之間),每刀允許的最多裁斷層數,依材料種類不同其所裁層數分別如下:Beforecutting,preparethecorrectmaterialandthecorrect&logicalillustrationoflaycuttingdieplans:thatmakesurethestretchdirectioncorrect,applytheminsafedistancebetweentheclosecutsection(commonlyit’s1-2mm),cutthemostlayerspercutasallowable,plsseethebelowchartforcuttingtheallowablelayersaccordingtothedifferentkindsofmaterials:類別Kinds品名規格MaterialNamespec層數Layers真皮Leather所有真皮.Allrealleather1人造Synthetic有沖孔Withperforations2無沖孔Withoutperforations4網布Mesh綱布Mesh+3-5mm泡棉Foam4網布Mesh+4mmEVA/三明治網布SandwichMesh2補強類Reinforcement210D/420D尼龍Nylon,18P細布slender,106600強布santaparts/0.6mm橡膠片Rubberpiece/0.6-1.0不織布non-woven/0.8麗新布Cosmo/1.5-2.0EVA80.3-06熱熔膠Hotmelt/1.5mm不織布Nonwoven5泡棉類Foam2-4mm泡棉Foam10泡棉Foam+36GT/C66-12mm泡棉Foam420mm泡棉Foam2中底類Insole加州中底Canvas/港寶HotMelt5化學布板Chemiccloth/1.5mm中底板Board2紅/黑板Red/BlackBoard2.0mm11.依領料單頷取物料,物料顏色/規格/數量一定要正確.Collectthematerialfromwarehouseaspertherequiredmateriallist.Makesurethecolor/spec/quantitycorrect.2.不允許超領.如有用量不夠,需查明原因,開補料單.經協理簽章後方或補領.Don’tallowtotakemorethanrequiredquantity.Ifthematerialisn’tenough,needcheckwhatitwascaused.Ifnecessary,applythereinforcedquantityandneedseniormanageragree&sign,thenmaytakethereinforcedmaterial.3.倉庫將需斬多層的料疊合好後,再發給裁斷部門.Needoverlapthematerialaspertheinstructionshownontheproceduremanual.Thendistributetothecuttingdepartment.裁斷領料COLLECTMATERIALFORCUTTING裁斷網布CUTMESH1,根據《量產通知書》選擇所用型體的斬刀,拉力方向及斬的層數.Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers.2,斬刀與裁斷機上座頂部的安全距離約為10mm.Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.3.斬刀與斬刀之間的間距為1.5mm.Distancebetweeneverycuttingdieis1.5mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料現象。刀模不能缺角和變形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors鐵捶Hammer斬刀cuttingdie白蠟Whitewax斬斷機Cuttingmachine斬板Cuttingboard1,根據《量產通知書》選擇所用型體的斬刀,拉力方向及斬的層數.Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers.2,斬刀與裁斷機上座頂部的安全距離約為10mm.Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.3.斬刀與斬刀之間的間距為1-2mm.Distancebetweenclosetwocutpositionis1-2mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料現象。刀模不能缺角和變形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.裁斷皮料CUTLEATHERAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors鐵捶Hammer斬刀cuttingdie白蠟Whitewax斬板Cuttingboard斬斷機Cuttingmachine檢查皮料,將不良處畫出Checktheleather&lineoutthebreakageportion注意排放斬刀向向Notethedirectionofcuttingdie1,根據《量產通知書》選擇所用型體的斬刀,拉力方向及斬的層數.Asperproductionprocedureinformation,choosethecuttingdie&setthecuttingdirectionorcuttinglayers.2,斬刀與裁斷機上座頂部的安全距離約為10mm.Safetydistancebetweencuttingdie&topofcuttingm/cisby10mm.3.斬刀與斬刀之間的間距為1mm.Distancebetweenclosetwocutpositionis1-2mm.4﹐物料不可有缺角或短料現象。刀模不能缺角和變形。Thecomponentshouldbeintactafterbeingcut.Andmakesurethecuttingdienogap&nodistortionbeforecutting.裁斷人造皮CUTSYNTHETICAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors鐵捶Hammer斬刀cuttingdie白蠟Whitewax斬板Cuttingboard斬斷機Cuttingmachine削皮Skiving1,按量產通知書所要求的標准,備好所需流程圖.Prepareprocedureflowchartaspertheproductioninformationindication.2,按操作流程圖調好所需物料的寬度及厚度.Setthemachinetoskivetherequiredwidth&thicknessofmaterialshownonP/I.3.所削皮的物料不可有厚薄不均及缺角,不到位的現象Guaranteetoskivethematerialevenly&completely,andnottomissany.AppliedTooling:削皮機Skivingmachine片皮Slipping1,備好所需部件的操作流程圖.Preparetheprocedureflowchartoftherequiredcomponent.2,按操作流程圖調試好所片薄部件的厚度.SetthemachinefollowingthecomponentthicknessshownonPFC.3,把所片薄的物料放于片薄版內,貼好再進行操作.Putthecomponentintotheframe&attachonit,thenslip.4﹐所片薄的材料不能有厚薄不均的現象.Guaranteetoslipevenly.AppliedTooling:片皮機Slippingmachine片薄外框板Frameboardforslipping磨邊BUFFEDGE1按量產通知書所要求的標准,備好所需流程圖.Preparetheprocedureflowchartastheproductioninformationindication2,按操作流程圖調好所需物料的寬度及厚度.Setthemachinetobufftherequiredwidth&thicknessshownonP/I.3所打粗的物料不可有厚薄不均及缺角,不到位的現象